ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

Hi. New here.

Iv always postponed my polishing projects because I knew I wanted at least 2 hp and prices were high. I just found this old relic and hope I could get your honest opinion if its worth my time. He want 250.. Its 5 hp. 1 1/4 shafts. 220volt

Thanks

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Hello
I am new to Polishing; I am trying to polish the Stainless Steel trim on a 1947 Plymouth. I received my order from Caswell and started in on one of the larger Pieces the rocker panel. I followed "Polishing Stainless Steel" from this web page as below.

1st Stage – Rough Cut to Remove Scratches
Use Sisal Wheel with Emery (Black) Compound
2nd Stage – Final Cut and Initial Polish
Use Spiral Sewn Wheel with Stainless Steel (Green) Compound
3rd Stage – Final Polish (or Luster)
Use Spiral Sewn Wheel with Stainless Steel (Green) Compound

After stage 2 I had hundreds of scratches on the piece and stage 3 does not remove them. Where have I gone wrong?

I live in south-east Michigan and I’m looking to buy a used buffer. I would prefer if it had a stand and dust hoods. Something around 1 or 2hp would be great!!! I would also prefer if it is a good brand, like a baldor. If anyone knows of a web site besides eBay and craigslist that would have buffers for sale please LMK asap.
Thanks in advance!! Gabe

I am going to polish all the gears in one of my motorcycles and not sure what to start with as far as tumbler media.

what kind of media or medias should i use to polish gears and camshafts in the tumbler?

any help is greatly appreciated

I tried a 4" sewn wheel in both my die grinders – 1 el cheapo and 1 Ingersal Rand, both bogged down considerably. Am I just pushing both tools with the larger diameter, or is it time to get a new die grinder.
I’ve seen people run them in angle grinders as an alternative, just prefer to stick with air.

I mostly polish stainless, which requires heavy machine sanding. My methods have evolved. One has to be creative in this field. Tool manufacturers are not exactly rushing to provide equipment for metal polishers. Here is my latest tool:

I bought a five inch hook and loop backup pad, drilled a large fender washer to bolt it to, brazed the washer to a 5/8-11 coupling nut, and now I have a five inch pad for that Makita 1400 rpm polisher you see there. I use store bought hook and loop sanding disks up to 150 grit. From there on I cut disks from sheets of wet or dry sandpaper in 220, 400, etc., and glue those to one of the 150 grit hook and loop disks with 3M number 77 spray adhesive. I use motor oil thinned with kerosene instead of water to sand with. Sandpaper seems to last longer with oil. Of course no sandpaper lasts very long on stainless. The stuff eats sandpaper.

I do the same with a smaller sander:

It’s a Chicago Pneumatics air polisher. It turns at 2500 rpm, and uses three inch disks. This is my favorite tool. I love it.

Getting stainless ready to go to the buffing wheel is still a lot of work, but these two things sure make it go faster with fewer headaches.

R

I am seeking help on which chrome powdercoat to buy and what steps to get it as close as possible to looking like chrome. Please be specific in your instructions. Once again please be specific and give as much info as possible. i.e. polishing the clear which clear and everything

Hello everyone,

I have finished stripping and polishing the gun parts that I’m working on. I am going to use the electroless process.

My question is, what would be a good rust remover to remove the very light rust that appears on bare metal? Would the hardware store options work? like Krud Kutter Rust remover, evapo-rust, or such?

I do not have any pure acids handy and I’d like to avoid using any such chemical unless it is utterly nescesary.

Thank you in advance

I’m getting tired of this!

I have a client interested in my work but suddenly I have that color erasure problem mentioned in another thread (will just ano for thicker layer = longer time) and I can’t get a clear, shiny finish after sealing and drying. So why bother polishing? I want to buy a tumbler but there’s no point if everything comes out so dusty anyway.

This is really important because until the economy improves, art is my only living. Ironic huh? Also time is a concern now, client wants several pieces in September, then maybe a lot more. So I appreciate your help now and before immensely; next round’s on me.

My first few ano runs resulted in beautiful, shiny pieces that colored nicely with tough layers. Now I look at those pieces nostalgically

I’ve read all the threads on this topic I could find, so let’s see if I can summarize and maybe someone can respond with something I missed.

1) Bath’s too hot: So I iced it to probably 60. Only 95 worst this summer anyway.
2) **** in bath: Just changed it. It WAS full of bugs, leaves and contaminating alloys from when i was stupid(er)
3) Not using distilled: Now run filtered in bath, dyes and sealer. Rinse with tap. I know that could be the problem BUT my first few runs were in tap electrolyte even. Here in NYC our water’s not so minerally.
4) Old sealer: changed it. Still same problem.
5) Oil the pieces w/ WD40: yes that works, but I didn’t used to have to do that. Now I have to soak them in it and let it sit a day, then wipe off – but results still aren’t as shiny. I need maximum shine and spend 1/2 hr polishing each piece & cleaning off polish for nothing.
6) Too high CD: not using 720 or LCD but my Astron power supply always seems to pick amperage for me. When i get to 15 volts I can’t raise amps past 12/14 for larger pieces or 2-4 for very small ones. And anyway, my guess-settings were working before.

COULD IT BE:
1) Old dye. Considering a second hand bar fridge to deal w/ mold in darker colors. My black never leaves fridge except to dye, is immaculate. Admittedly some colors have molded beyond skimming – got some nutty blotches on a test piece in violet last night.
2) I should use LCD or 720. My pieces are very irregular shapes, I think you’d need a PhD to correctly calculate their surface area. How does one get round that?
3) ???

Thanks for reading all that, and ideas!

Hi all,
Not a total newbie to buffing al as I have been restoring/modifying cycles and have done a lot of buffing polishing to bring the shine back to parts with really good success….until now.
I have two struts that I machined from raw aluminum block for a bike I am customizing. I got the al at a local steel supplier. Once the machining was done I sanded everything with 220 until all the tooling marks were gone. This is where it gets funny/strange. On the first piece I was impatient and buffed after the 220 sanding and it looked fantastic!! I noticed it one area I could see some of the sanding marks so I decided I would do it the right way and started over. Sanded with 220, then 600, then 1500. Then I started buffing and was very disappointed. I can’t get the same chrome-look as I did before. The finish has a slight cloudiness to it. I even put a fresh wheel on to no avail. I took one part and re-sanded it with the 600 and re-buffed…it looks better but there is still a haze to it that I can’t get to clear up. I’m using the white compound w/spiral sewn wheel. I even tried using a loose cotton wheel and that seemed to make matters worse! What am I doing wrong??