Is it possible to re bake a part—>

October 1st, 2009 at 11:08am Under metal finishing

That wasnt baked long enough the first time??

I PC an head to a snowmobile and it looks great
but i wonder if i baked long enough?

Thanks

BTW i was using powder by the pound and the is fire engine
red extra durable coat i believe its called

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Beginner with questions

September 28th, 2009 at 11:01am Under metal finishing

I’m new to powder and have been trying some things and having some problems.

Background:
I built my own oven. I haven’t done a temp. calibration yet.
I have the Redline 250 gun.
I’ve added a ground wire from my spray rack to a ground rod outside my garage.

Successes:
Black on bare steel – looks great
Lollypop Purple on bare steel and bare – looks great

Failures:

1. Extreme chrome on bare steel and bare separates in places – See picture. Do I need thicker powder, lower temp, longer cook?
My oven has an old house oven temp controller – the powder says 392 for 30 – 60 minutes. I set the dial at very slightly under 400 and cooked for 35 minutes.

2. Illusion Amethyst and Illusion Aquamarine over black. I couldn’t get an even coat of powder to stick. Tried different settings on the gun, didn’t seem to matter

3. Lollypop Purple over Extreme chrome. Had the same problem with powder not sticking evenly. Tried with over Extreme chrome hot right out of curing oven – that’s the dark one. – seemed to get a more even coat of powder on, but then the chrome seemed to lift up and mix with the purple in the oven.
Tried it on Extreme Chrome cold. – very poor powder adherance and some lifting of the chrome into the purple in the oven as well. That’s the light colored one.

Hopefully the picture helps explain my situation. Please advise to what things I should do to correct my problems.

Thank you so much.

Spirit Flyer Creations

Daniel Gilbertson
Readstown, WI


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Candy Apple Red

September 28th, 2009 at 11:01am Under metal finishing

Good evening folks. I am new to , but I have been sucessfully for the last few weeks. I have a customer looking for a similar to candy apple red. I have Red Borderex (Spelling), but it is still too light. Can someone share any tips via message boards here or perhaps via pm. I have the wheel, but it is only so useful in this scenario cause on paper doesn’t look like on .

Thanks!

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What am i doing wrong here?

September 23rd, 2009 at 10:42pm Under metal finishing

What is going on here? I am still getting a streak in the one piece. The other piece is just dulling. I put both of these pieces in while they were a mirror finish. After i took them out of the ano bath they were dull. I dried them both off and i could wipe off a little of the dull and i got a chalky film on my hand. Could it be in the water. The water is very clear. I just used soap and water, then the degreaser for about 3 minutes, i skipped the desmut this time and still the same results.:confused:>:(


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Blotchy overdye

September 17th, 2009 at 10:05pm Under metal finishing

A lot of things were working fine been hinky lately. ???

Been working with a lot of pieces that I realize are cut from the same alloy of sheet. My process has been

Cut (plasma cut)
Shape + deburr
Polish
Ano
Dye
(Redye)
Seal in nickel acetate

When they’re dyed the first time, they look beautiful, uniform, perfect. When they’re masked or acidwashed, though, the first is fine – but the second becomes blotchy, and more so with every bleach/sulfuric dip + redye. Eventually with each treatment it stops dying at all; usually by the third bleach/acid/redye it’ll take only the lightest shade of the third , in blotches.

Here is a piece that was dyed yellow, masked in parts, then redyed brown. The other was dyed blue, masked, dyed violet, masked, and dyed green (this is the backside, the flip with the masking was more uniform in green but several shades lighter -???). The effect could be desirable but is NOT what I’m looking for here.

Many thanks..


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Two same alloy pieces..different results

September 16th, 2009 at 09:55am Under metal finishing

Thanks to recent improvements, most things are running better in my setup. But this weird problem keeps occurring.

Two of the same pieces that need deox/desmut connected together here. Both were anodized (badly, see my dozen other recent threads), stripped in lye, rinsed, deox/desmut, then reanodized. One comes out fine, or fine-ish. The other is pitted and when it dries, the pits become white bumps.

Two pieces of the same alloy, under same treatment and anoed in the same run, anodized at different colors, one dark grey, the other less so. Both pitted unacceptably and took dye differently, neither very well.

One was anodized more often than the other, this was one piece’s third run. But both were prepped the same way. I guess matching pieces must always be prepped, processed (and reprocessed) in lockstep, or both thrown out.

Thoughts?


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New with questions

September 13th, 2009 at 09:49am Under metal finishing

i am new and just got my tanks setup. I am a little confused at the 720 rule.
I have the 25amp constant current supply. What do i need to set the current at. The test pieces i am trying to anodize are flat pieces 1" x 3". can someone give an example on how to figure this and what to set my power supply at. i tried one piece but the dye was faint in . Thanks for the help.

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Used hv 50 & powder how much $$$$

September 13th, 2009 at 09:49am Under metal finishing

i KNOW A GUY WHO HAS A 3 YR OLD HARDLY USED CASWELL HV 50, AND ABOUT 10 CANS OF POWDER. THESE COLORS I PROBABLY WOULDNT USE. INCLUDED ALSO, ARGON FLANGE KITS Q15, R20 AND F23. HE WANTS 275. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK ? I THINK ITS A LITTLE HIGH. IM BASICALLY A ROOKIE, I HAVE AN EASTWOOD SET UP, BUT LOOKING TO TAKE A STEP UP, THAT HYPER SMOOTH LOOKS MIGHTY TEMPTING.

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Types of Anodizing

September 11th, 2009 at 09:30pm Under metal finishing

Chromic
Utilizing a chromic acid electrolyte this form of yields the thinnest coatings, only .05 to .1 mils thick. Chromic is a good choice when a part is complex and difficult to rinse because chromic acid is less corrosive than sulfuric acid used in other methods. Chromic anodize also reduces the fatigue strength of the less than the other methods described.
Sulfuric
This form of yields coatings under 1 mil thick. Although it offers mild abrasion resistance it is more durable than chromic anodize. Like most anodizes corrosion resistance is excellent. The most desirable feature of this form of would be the excellent results from dyeing yielding deep and rich colors.
Hardcoat
Also using a sulfuric acid electrolyte, although at a lower temperature, hardcoat anodize’s claim to fame is wear resistance. This will produce a Rockwell C-scale rating of 60-70. This makes it an excellent candidate for many wear situations.

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Color match help request!

September 8th, 2009 at 09:21pm Under metal finishing

Hi guys! I have a client that want his s2000 valve cover coated as the same J’s Racing use for their covers. The is called Candy Teal just like columbia coatings one, but don’t seems to be the same, and I’ll like your opinion!
this is the J’s racing valve cover as the client wants:

and this is the cc Candy Teal

The valve covers seems a lit more blueish. I know it could be a flash/lightning changes (I have multiple pics of the same job that looks a lot diff depending on the light), but I’ll like the opinion of some one that has used Columbia Candy Teal!

thanks for your time and have a great day!

note: sorry for the threatjacking its just easyer than redacting it all over again!

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