Aluminum Coatings
September 23rd, 2009 at 10:42pm Under metal finishing
Can you sell this or do you offer something similar??
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Noobie here with some question.
September 22nd, 2009 at 10:38am Under metal finishing
Hello everyone,
I am new to the PC process. I am an avil snowmobilier and i want to PC some of the parts on my sled. Some steel and some aluminum. My family owned busness allows me access to large ovens and and beadblasting cabinet so i figured it would be cheaper and more put to do my own PC. Some of the aluminum parts i want to PC on the sled are the head cover and brake caliper. Maybe some exhaust parts. Do i need to take special care when PC
these aluminum parts because of the 400* temps?
thanks.
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cast brass surface conditioning
September 22nd, 2009 at 10:38am Under metal finishing
Hello all, new guy here with a couple of questions. I do sand casting of brass and aluminum and have a few issues with the surface quality, especially the brass. The surface is ‘pitted’ (the interior is solid) after casting. I’ve tried about every trick I know of to remove all the variables like loose sand, parting dust, trapped gas etc. Is there a process I need to go through to remove or mask the surface pits such as shot peening or glass beading before buffing/polishing? I can get a mirror finish otherwise but the pits show. They are small like pin pricks shot gunned across the surface.
How would I get a satin finish instead of a high gloss.
And last, how do you remove the buffer residue from tight detail spaces? Is there a chemical or procedure?
Thanks!
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Layer building on cathode?
September 14th, 2009 at 09:53pm Under metal finishing
I use aluminum 1/8 sheets for my cathode and as the electrolyte level slowly goes down, I can see a small build up of white chalk on the cathode, normal yes?
However lately I’ve noticed large chunks of it up near the top of the bin, above the electrolyte level. What is this build up does anyone know? Should I be worried?
However lately I’ve noticed large chunks of it up near the top of the bin, above the electrolyte level. What is this build up does anyone know? Should I be worried?
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New oven build: Input is appreciated :)
September 11th, 2009 at 09:30pm Under metal finishing
Hello everyone. I have been lurking and reading for awhile now, but have officially started my oven build. Oven will be 4X4X6 lay down, but will have two doors on the side with an insertable divider allowing you to use half at a time if you wish. I have purchased 5 -2600 watt elements for a total of 13000 watts. Also have purchased all Auber products for PID and K type thermo with two 40 amp SSR’s. Structure is made out of square rectangular tubing, and insulation will be kiln quality calcium silicate.
Only real question at this point is if it is ok to line my interior with aluminum. The calcium silicate will be ridgid—almost mortar like(stacked bricks with sealant in between), so there will be no transfer to the outside of the oven. I am planning on using sheets of.010 aluminum merely for a dust barrier from the calcium silicate. Should I try to attach the aluminum in a million places, or try to not attach it except on the outer edges(for expansion) . I realize aluminum is more expensive, but i currently have in storage 6 sheets of 4 by 12 .010 aircraft aluminum, so no money will be put in to that part.
Am anxious to hear everyone’s input, and hope to get a lot out of this forum as well as hope to help others. Thanks Guys!!!
This is post is sent to the Surface Finishing section from a blog about Aluminium, Coating, Plate, Metals, Nickel, Chemical, Anodising, Chrome Plating, Plating or Chromic acid. Post title is New oven build: Input is appreciated 
and blog title is Plating Powder Coating Buffing Anodizing – Caswell Inc. Metal Finishing Forum. Please click. to view the orijinal source.
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Aluminum electrolytic capacitor
September 11th, 2009 at 09:30pm Under metal finishing
An electrolyte capable of anodizing aluminum consists essentially of a solution of an amino acid having a pH of 5.5 to 8.5. The amino acid is preferably a 2-amino acid, more preferably a dicarboxylic acid, and specifically aspartic or glutamic acid. The electrolyte may be used to anodize aluminum foil to form a barrier layer oxide or as a fill electrolyte in aluminum electrolytic capacitors.
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Types of Anodizing
September 11th, 2009 at 09:30pm Under metal finishing
Chromic Anodizing
Utilizing a chromic acid electrolyte this form of anodizing yields the thinnest coatings, only .05 to .1 mils thick. Chromic anodizing is a good choice when a part is complex and difficult to rinse because chromic acid is less corrosive than sulfuric acid used in other anodizing methods. Chromic anodize also reduces the fatigue strength of the aluminum less than the other methods described.
Sulfuric Anodizing
This form of anodizing yields coatings under 1 mil thick. Although it offers mild abrasion resistance it is more durable than chromic anodize. Like most anodizes corrosion resistance is excellent. The most desirable feature of this form of anodizing would be the excellent results from dyeing yielding deep and rich colors.
Hardcoat Anodizing
Also using a sulfuric acid electrolyte, although at a lower temperature, hardcoat anodize’s claim to fame is wear resistance. This will produce a Rockwell C-scale rating of 60-70. This makes it an excellent candidate for many wear situations.
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Checklist
September 7th, 2009 at 09:08am Under metal finishing
Hey everyone,
I have been lurking for quite some time; learning. I feel that now is about the time that I may just really go into this thing for myself, just for some fun. I’m not looking to make a business out of it, and I am not doing large parts. My parts are 6-8 sq. in., not quite as big as most of the stuff you guys work on. I only need to do about 1-2 of those parts at a time, since I don’t mind waiting. With this being the case, it seems to me that I barely need an Amp to achieve the results I am looking to get using LCD. So, the reason I am posting here is to get some advice about the equipment I need to look into getting. So far, I have the list below, and subsequent questions about those items.
The list:
-Goggles
-Respirator
-Gloves (any type that you prefer?)
-Apron
-Baking Soda
-Power Supply (will the 3A or 5A work for my small batches: Caswell Inc. – Plating Rectifiers)
-Battery Acid (where do you typically get this? I’m about to head out the door to my local auto parts store)
-Dyes (which would you recommend and how much/how many)
-A LOT of distilled water
-Bleach (standard household clorox?)
-Lye
-Small plastic tub (5 litres or so)
-Small plastic containers for dyes and cleaning (~7)
-Aluminum wire for hanging
-Aluminum bar to make rack out of
-Aluminum sheet for cathode (2x as large as my parts, just to be safe?)
-Spray bottles (~2)
Thank you all for your help, this could be an exciting journey!
EDIT: Also, are things like agitation, aeration, mist balls, etc. necessary for such a small scale setup?
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Caswell Aluminum DeOx and DeSmut
September 5th, 2009 at 08:57pm Under metal finishing
I have an engine-turned 2024 Aluminum firewall that is oxidized and makes a muddy mess when I try to polish with Simichrome. I’d like to clean off all the oxidation and then polish.
It sounds like the Caswell product would do the job, but does anyone know if it is acid based? The firewall is held in place with Al rivets and also has some other aluminum parts rivited to it. I’m concerned about solution finding its way beneath the rivet heads and continuing to eat away at the Al if it’s acid based.
It sounds like the Caswell product would do the job, but does anyone know if it is acid based? The firewall is held in place with Al rivets and also has some other aluminum parts rivited to it. I’m concerned about solution finding its way beneath the rivet heads and continuing to eat away at the Al if it’s acid based.
Thanks,
John
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Clear coating silk screened aluminum?
September 1st, 2009 at 08:32am Under metal finishing
I hope I am posting in the proper forum…
I have silk screened some brushed aluminum with uv ink, the aluminum I intend on bending into boxes, but I can already tell the ink will wear off over time without a clear coat. I need to clear coat these so the ink will be protected. I have thought of using polyurethane but that may not be suitable being these boxes are for guitar effects boxes and it could wear quickly.
I have silk screened some brushed aluminum with uv ink, the aluminum I intend on bending into boxes, but I can already tell the ink will wear off over time without a clear coat. I need to clear coat these so the ink will be protected. I have thought of using polyurethane but that may not be suitable being these boxes are for guitar effects boxes and it could wear quickly.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good clear coat for this? Can I anodize them, will this remove the ink if I do? Should I use some type of automotive clear coat? I need some thing very durable. Thanks!
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