I would to find a gold metallic powder that matches the VHT engine paint I used on the block (part number SP404).

New to powdercoating,would like to order what I need all at once.
Do I need to get samples sent to me or send in a sample for them to match?

Was kinda hoping someone had already matched this color to a particular brand of powder,any chance of that?

Guys today I receive my order from Caswell that consists of dye,anodize/chrome stripper,de-ox/smut,sealer and de-greaser.The ano/chrom bottle had alittle leak in the sealed bag along with dye,no harm just cleaned the containers with a rag and all is good.In my garage during the summer the temps runs whatever the outside is which is usually around 95 degrees and sometimes higher.With these items in the original containers is it OK to store them in these temps and next to each other without the fear of migration,and any special precautions taken storing them needed?I know these are basic questions,I just want to do it right the first time and not have to learn so much from my mistakes which I will share:oops:—-Carroll

I notice there’s been a little discussion about heavy etching parts as a finish prior to anodising (thread http://forum.caswellplating.com/anod…ke-finish.html). I realise parts are often etched prior to anodizing in order to prepare the surface. I mean more as a surface treatment to actually texture the surface. I know bead blasting is an alternative though it is very time consuming and therefore costly.

I wonder if anyone’s made any great discoveries with etching as a finish as it could combine with anodising to give an attractive and cost efficient way to finish ali parts. I notice the latest htc mobiles phones now have a very smart plasma etched & anodized finish. Thoughts anyone?

Hello. I have a problem that I’ve been trying to get resolved for a while, but to no avail. I have a few old tea sets that were made sometime between 1900-1940’s. Most are silver plate over copper but one set is silver plate over steel or some type of alloy. They aren’t valueable pieces but because of their simplistic design and functionality, I would like to use them on a regular basis without the upkeep of silver. I would like to be able to wash and dry them like my aluminum and stainless steel cookware. It occurred to me a while back that if I can get them replated with some type of chrome or nickel finish that it would still keep its metal luster without the dulling from tarnished silver.

I called a few companies that plate silver and asked them if they would replate the items in a different metal and they said no. I emailed another company recently and asked them the same question. The response from the guy that read my email was that they couldn’t plate the items due to health/safety reasons. Does anyone know of a metal that could be used other than silver on the pieces to replate them that wouldn’t be toxic?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m considering the possibility that I might end up having to plate the items myself. I had no idea that nickel and chrome were toxic.

Ive only been a member here for a few days, but ive been here reading and researching for well over a month. Thanks for those that share thier builds and those that freely share thier expertise. Ive gotten the frame built, insulated, and sheet metal installed on the inside of the oven. I decided that im not too keen on the whole silicone idea inside the oven, instead i decided to cut 6 inch wide lengths of sheet metal and used a brake to make 3inch angle covers for att the inside and outside corners. I aslo used the break and 18 ga alum to build enclosure for the controlls, which thats where I could use some advice. All of the components are ordered and most is here. I wanted to use higher end controls but theis build went over budget so its auber controlls for now. Here is a list of ordered items:
Auber SYL-2342P PID/ramp soak controller
Auber ASL-51 MULTIFUNCTION TIMER
1-k thermocouple
1-k thermocouple with clip
1-50a 240v contactor
3-push button on/off switch
1-on/off/on toggle switch
1-on/on toggle switch
2-120v buzzer alarm
1-main disconect switch

I read through the manuals for the pid several times and much of it made sense but some didnt. I did understand that this pid can ramp up the oven at a disired rate(temp rise over a period of time, and hold a temp for a period of time) What i would like to accomplish is this:
1.) Start Pid program
2.) oven heat up to desired temp
3.) alarm sound alerting selected temp has been reached
4.) timer begins for cure
5.) timer expires and buzzer alerts to end of cure cycle
6.) elements shut down
Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated I can read schematics and have a limited electrical background which is the only reason i understood as much as i did of the controller manual. I will post some pics tomorrow of the progress.

Jonathon

Ok here goes, I’ve been doing anodizing for myself for about 4 years now. I have gotten so many inquires about anodizing that I have decided to do for other people now, but before I do I need to get a few questions answered and make double sure I’ve got everything correct and what I need.

- I have a astron 15v 50a. Now I have heard that it is not constant current and it shouldn’t be used for anodizing. What I have noticed is that if I set my amps to high that the ps seems to crash and drop amperage. Now if I set it at my correctly calculated amps it runs consistent as can be. I shouldn’t be running more than 15 amps at a time. 6-12 usually. I would like to know what problems I will run into with this power supply? Is it it a must that I track down another power supply?

- I have a small tank about 10 gal, I will be switching to lead cathodes and want to use my old solution along with some new is this ok?

- Is there a cheap/easy way to tell whether my proportions are correct? Besides measuring before?

- My new tank is a 31 gal Rubbermaid from lows. I got it home and realized the stinking thing is as wide as my current tank is long! Is it ok for me to run a small run (4-6a) in such a large tank?

-I’m guessing that a chiller is a must, What I wanted to do is buy a cheaper water chiller under the counter type unit, Water chiller Evercold EWC-100 | eBay

This one is old, but works….I know I can’t run acid trough this but I wanted to run the water through a TI exchanger that sits in the tank. Should this be adequate?

Any answers and even other advice is greatly appreciated!

I apologize if I am asking to many questions..

Thanks again guys! , Stephen

I am excited that I am going to get into plating. I want to do this for some of my guns that I have. I have a few questions regarding submerging into a solution whether it’s for nickle, gold, copper, etc…

When plating this increases the part by X mils so you have to be careful on the tolerance of the weapon to ensure you don’t add too much plating that will cause jamming. How cautious should one be on this? The reason I am asking is because lets say an AK47 has some play where you can plate everything and I feel confident it will still fire but if you go plating an AR15, the tolerances are tighter and it makes me question if submerging the upper receiver where the inside get’s platted then if you submerge the bolt, it’s fitting, etc…would cause jamming and fitting issues. If this is the case, is there an application that you can apply that will prevent plating on certain area? Another reason is plating a barrel. I figure you don’t want plating on the inside so you would have the cap that off.

Thanks,

I was recently at a friend’s convience store and he asked me about my little home coating work. I told him I was making money but I was turning down larger jobs due to a small oven and undersized air compressor.

He told me he has 1200 square feet of office space in the back of his building he wasn’t using and said he could get a bigger oven built and get the air compressor I needed. Now he has the cash to jump start this and said we could work out a percentage instead of me leasing the space or paying the electric bill. He said I could use his high school son as labor and teach him in the process.

My though is I really need the equipment and space but I really do not want someone else in my business. Having a business address would allow me to get my FFL so I can cut out the local pawn shop for shipping weapons I am Cerakoting. I do have a 900 square foot shop at home with 1000 square foot of guy stuff. The rub is there are dry spells or small jobs that really don’t pay well.

I am still thinking it over but I am leaning towards no. Any thoughts?

Laters,
Ken

Guys I have this flat bar (1"x 1 1/2×24")that I will be attempting to anodize,but I need to drill some through holes and drill some stop holes that will be tap using a 3/8 tap.All this will be done on the drill press using one of those metal vises that has the x & y axis.My questions is,would it be better for me to machine it first then anodize or after?(After Anodizing)I can line the jaws of the vise w/wood to keep from scratching the freshly anodize piece but I’m wondering about the cutting oil for tapping.Before Anodizing:I will be shooting for the 1mil thickness but I’m wondering about the through holes and the tap holes,after anodizing I can run a bit and clean the holes out and run a tap to clean the threads out if necessary.The holes and tap holes will kinda be out of the line of fire so maybe the anodizing will not be as thick,since the crystals(???)grow straight out off the piece.Just building a plan—–Carroll

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I am planning to build a 8′ x 8′ x 30′ powdercoat oven. I am trying to determine what size and type of gas heating unit I will need to operate this oven between 400 and 500 degrees? I am looking several used heating units but not sure what I really need, any help would be appreciated… Scott