ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

So I polished a set of rims for my car last season and want to possibly give it another go this season.

I polished the rims last season as best as I could get them, but wasn’t fully satisfied with the outcome. There were still very fine scratches as well as a slight haziness that I could not get rid of.

My process:
Striped the wheels with aircraft stripper, multiple times.
Started sanding at 320, 400, 600, 800(wet sand), 1000 (wet sand), 1200 (wet sand) 1500 (wet sand), & finally 2000 (wet sand)
After the sanding process I used various polishing attachments using a drill. I started with the dark brown/reddish compound and then went to white and finally finished with mothers polish.

I repeated this process twice on each wheel after noticing I still had a slight haze, fine scratches and like blotchy marks on the face of the rims. Now I figured instead of giving 450$ to get them professional polished first, I was hoping it would be a simple fix in my technique to make them truly shine.

The absolute only thing I can think of for not getting the perfect shine is because I used only a drill with attachments. If that is the case what should I use that would be easy to handle when polishing rims? I was thinking a grinder, da with buffing attachments if they make them, a 3" orbital sander (which I already have, for the tight spots) and then maybe a die grinder with buffing attachments for inside the spokes and such.

If anyone can help me I would truly appreciate it.

If I used a DA or orbital sander for some of my sanding stages, say 300-600 which that be okay?

So I polished a set of rims for my car last season and want to possibly give it another go this season.

I polished the rims last season as best as I could get them, but wasn’t fully satisfied with the outcome. There were still very fine scratches as well as a slight haziness that I could not get rid of.

My process:
Striped the wheels with aircraft stripper, multiple times.
Started sanding at 320, 400, 600, 800(wet sand), 1000 (wet sand), 1200 (wet sand) 1500 (wet sand), & finally 2000 (wet sand)
After the sanding process I used various polishing attachments using a drill. I started with the dark brown/reddish compound and then went to white and finally finished with mothers polish.

I repeated this process twice on each wheel after noticing I still had a slight haze, fine scratches and like blotchy marks on the face of the rims. Now I figured instead of giving 450$ to get them professional polished first, I was hoping it would be a simple fix in my technique to make them truly shine.

The absolute only thing I can think of for not getting the perfect shine is because I used only a drill with attachments. If that is the case what should I use that would be easy to handle when polishing rims? I was thinking a grinder, da with buffing attachments if they make them, a 3" orbital sander (which I already have, for the tight spots) and then maybe a die grinder with buffing attachments for inside the spokes and such.

If anyone can help me I would truly appreciate it.

If I used a DA or orbital sander for some of my sanding stages, say 300-600 which that be okay?

ok guys.

i am trying to strip the paint /powder of of a 1986 can am dirt bike. after a few hours in the tank i pulled out the frame and very little of the finish was removed. i thought that may be the stripper was used up so i put in a scrap piece that was recently powdered. after about 30 mins the 2 coats of powder on the scrap piece was completely removed. so i deemed the stripper to be working fine.

is the caswell stripper strip paint?
what can i use to effectively strip this finish?

thanks

ok guys.

i am trying to strip the paint /powder of of a 1986 can am dirt bike. after a few hours in the tank i pulled out the frame and very little of the finish was removed. i thought that may be the stripper was used up so i put in a scrap piece that was recently powdered. after about 30 mins the 2 coats of powder on the scrap piece was completely removed. so i deemed the stripper to be working fine.

is the caswell stripper strip paint?
what can i use to effectively strip this finish?

thanks

Hello, I’m new to this forum and have a question about welding assemblies that have already been anodized.

One part is 2024T3 and the other is 6061T6. Both parts are type II class II back w/nickel acetate seal. The area that is welded was masked and free of anodize. how much heat does it take to damage the coating? is 2024 more sensitive and will loose ano at a lower temp?

I have a customer who is welding these parts and they are seeing a diss-coloring on the 6061 but the 2024 looses coating well past the heat affected zone. I believe that they are doing lots of things wrong; they need some convincing.

Thanks,

Tom

Hello, I’m new to this forum and have a question about welding assemblies that have already been anodized.

One part is 2024T3 and the other is 6061T6. Both parts are type II class II back w/nickel acetate seal. The area that is welded was masked and free of anodize. how much heat does it take to damage the coating? is 2024 more sensitive and will loose ano at a lower temp?

I have a customer who is welding these parts and they are seeing a diss-coloring on the 6061 but the 2024 looses coating well past the heat affected zone. I believe that they are doing lots of things wrong; they need some convincing.

Thanks,

Tom

I need to plate some small non-conductive sculptures (polyurethane). I’m looking for cooper and bronze as the final finish. I’m looking for someone in the greater Seattle area but anywhere in Washington state or lower BC could work.

Thanks

I need to plate some small non-conductive sculptures (polyurethane). I’m looking for cooper and bronze as the final finish. I’m looking for someone in the greater Seattle area but anywhere in Washington state or lower BC could work.

Thanks

hello everyone thank you for taking the time to read my post. I have a 6ft tall, 4ft wide, 7 ft long custom oven that i have built in my garage, fully insulated with mineral wool. It is heated with a propane heater 55,000 btu. it reaches about 350 degrees in about 1 hour, yes i said 1 hour (too long). now i am thinking on adding heating elements inside of the oven but at the same time using my propane heater (on low) to circulate the air inside. i have a 20A BREAKER FOR MY GARAGE BUT I AM WILLING TO UPGRADE IF NECESSARY
Here is my question:

1) is it ok for me to use heating elements plus a propane heater (set on low) to heat up my oven??
2) CAN I BUY THIS 20%OFF Digital PID Temperature controller + 25A SSR + K thermocouple thermostat | eBay to power my elements up??
3) what heating element specs should i get? brand? watts?
4) CAN SOMEONE GUIDE ME ON MY PROJECT??

THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME

hello everyone thank you for taking the time to read my post. I have a 6ft tall, 4ft wide, 7 ft long custom oven that i have built in my garage, fully insulated with mineral wool. It is heated with a propane heater 55,000 btu. it reaches about 350 degrees in about 1 hour, yes i said 1 hour (too long). now i am thinking on adding heating elements inside of the oven but at the same time using my propane heater (on low) to circulate the air inside. i have a 20A BREAKER FOR MY GARAGE BUT I AM WILLING TO UPGRADE IF NECESSARY
Here is my question:

1) is it ok for me to use heating elements plus a propane heater (set on low) to heat up my oven??
2) CAN I BUY THIS 20%OFF Digital PID Temperature controller + 25A SSR + K thermocouple thermostat | eBay to power my elements up??
3) what heating element specs should i get? brand? watts?
4) CAN SOMEONE GUIDE ME ON MY PROJECT??

THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME