ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

This fall/winter I am going to start to rip apart my household oven and make a larger one with the top and bottom burners from the existing one. I am wanting to make it roughly 2 x 2 x 5 feet long (or tall). Will the two burners be enough from the existing oven to heat up this one? I am going to use metal studs, steel for the inside and out and 1 1/2" mineral wool for lining.

Also, should it be longer rather than taller? And if so, where would I place the two burners for optimal usage, at the bottom like if it was taller, or on the sides and towards the bottoms? Thanks.

Hello all,

My name is Matthew Patterson, a manufacturing planner in aerospace and a first time poster on this forum and so far I am impressed by the help of other people I’ve read on other posts. So I’m going to try my luck here.

I’ll give you what I’m working with:

Material: Al 6013 sheet metal in T6 condition (received in T4) AMS4347 .040" Thick.

Process: Chromic Acid anodizing (Type I class 1) using 40 volt processing and hot DI water sealing.

Problem: randomly recieving parts in post-anodic condition with dark staining on the material which is transposed (mirrored) to the opposite side of the sheet.

Affected areas contain a slightly higher concentration of copper and slighly lower hardness value (both still well within AMS4347 specification).

Normal piece exhibited Cu. Content of .917/.927%.
Dark area exhibited Cu. Content of 1.04/1.05%.

I attached a few pictures but it is difficult to photograph the staining condition. The camera we use does not take well to anodic coatings. Please look carefully to find the random areas of dark discolouration as they are much more apparently in person.

As aluminum sheeting is not porus I cannot see any chemicals able to penetrate through the material and re-processing the parts does not eliminate the stains.

If anyone has any ideas as to what is causing this I would be most appreciative. If any clarification or if more information is needed please let me know.

I appreciate everyones time!

Matthew Patterson

Attachment 2548Attachment 2549

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

Does anyone know what abrasive type is in the greaseless compounds? I’m assuming it’s aluminum oxide in a wax binder, but I want to be sure of it before buying it.

Also, I have various buffing compounds, but I’ve never been 100% sure if I’m using them in the proper order and don’t want to end up moving backwards on my own progress.

Mostly I’m wondering whether the White Rouge or Green Rouge leaves a finer finish. Also whether the White Lightning Stainless is finer than the Blue Begone Liquid Polish.

Hello, Im new to all of this and have a question that Im sure many know the answer to.
I have a chance to get a free walk in cooler (8′ x 12′)with door (no floor). It is metal clad inside and out but I think they are dense foam filled. Would this make a good oven or would the foam catch fire and burnup or perhaps let off poison fumes? If this would work for a oven what could one heat the large room with. thanks from a newbee.

I recantly glassbeaded my rochester quadrajet and cleaned it out well and dryed it and dipped it into my yellow zinc solution for about 30 sec. and it started to look good but its not dark enough. what would be a good time to set the entire body into it, would 3 to 4 min. be to long???Does it hurt anything to redip after carb. is dry???

I have a bike with a lot of chrome. In my 50+ years i have had a lot of vehicles and many of them bikes with chrome. The one i have now has a ton of chrome and most of it is well scratched up with the kind of very fine scratches that you only see in certain light which car detailers usually call swirl marks. The kind that comes from just cleaning the chrome with a cloth, even a microfiber thats not 100% void of debris.

that said, i have in the past tried a lot of things such as various find metal polishes from coarser ones to billet polish and cloths from slightly abrasive old t shirts to the ultra soft SPA towel by peak thats much softer than most microfiber. What i believe about chrome is this…. If you use a cloth/polish that is abrasive enough to remove any scratches at all, it will add more than it takes away. Not enough and it does nothing. I came to believe it’s not possible. However, someone at a detailing forum told me it was possible and pointed me here. So i’m asking…..is there a way? Specifically by hand or some way where i wouldn’t have to remove the chrome such as you’d need to to used a wheel. Thats obviously out, as it would take a week to remove all the parts on the bike and put them back, and the scratching will need to be done several times a year, at least 2 anyways.

I still think there is not way because while i’m probably not near as experienced at metal polishing as most here, i have done a lot of it over the years including sanding it smooth and taking it to a mirror shine from there. So i’m not a noob on the subject at all. I hope i’m wrong, but i don’t think this is possible. Thoughts?

i have several cars in the process of restoration and have come to the replating/chrome stage which i have no experience in. at this point all i know for sure is that it is a very expensive procedure and my resources are limited.
what i thinking of doing is to strip the pieces an do a lot of the prep work, filling, buffing etc. and then have plating shop do the rest.
just figuring that if i can take some of the labor intensive work out of the process maybe i could make it all a little more affordable.

does anyone have any advice and or how to go about removing old chrome/nickle etc.
the various parts are off of vintage corvettes (1957, 60, 62) some steel other parts of pot metal.
thanks

Sometime back in a reply to one of my posts, it was stated that the CopyCad solution does not "wear out".

Well, I have been having a lot of trouble with my small CopyCad plating bath. It was not plating very well and I increased the plating current and increased the plating time a great amount and still got poor results. I noticed the plating was not doing well the last three plating sessions I conducted. The symptoms were thin plate and very dark plating in recesses and at angles on the part and at the part edges. With the thin plating my chromates were not taking well. After eliminating every possible problem, I decided to change the plating solution. Wow! What a difference it made. Now I am back to my normal plating results.

What I finally figured out is that over a period of time (over 6 years) I probably diluted my plating solution to the point it no longer plated well. You always lose a little solution due to dragout and although I topped if off with distilled water, over time the strength of the plating solution must be getting reduced.

So, I have concluded that the CopyCad solution can wear out if its diluted.

Jerry Hudgens

I am looking at doing some light duty polishing and need an electric die grinder? or some type of high speed rotary tool that I can chuck a 1/4 inch bit into that will hold a small 3m pad…with sand paper and buffing pads..

Harbor Freight? Tractor supply?? I’d like something a little more h/d than a dremel but can start with a dremel if needed…

Looking to pick one up for my own use…Not trying to make a living but also going to start powder coating a few parts for myself and friends (already have the powder coater and oven, just need the blaster and compressor )

I am looking at two home owner grade cabinets.. One uses 5 cfm and is more expensive.. the other 9.5 cfm.. and more in my price range??

I dont have the compressor yet and want to buy the compressor to fit the blaster.

Black Bull™ Vertical Abrasive Blast Cabinet – 3900843 | Tractor Supply Company

and

40 Lb. Capacity Floor Blast Cabinet

are the two cabinets I am looking at. Which would you guys get? The one that uses less cfm would allow me to not have to spend so much on a compressor. 9.5 is a BUNCH of air right???