ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

have been using black then tripoli then green. bought some stainless compound from you
but no directions. can I use instead of black? having trouble removing marks from black stage
thanks

Hello, I bought the buffing compounds black, brown and white but….. ok now im a newbie so be easy on me how do I apply this stuff? Its hard as a rock!?

I allready sanded my aluminum rims from 220-1500……

I have a guy wanting me to coat two wing windows, like this one, and 6 door handles/window cranks for a ‘66 Mustang, in ultimate chrome. With the wing window frames, I will have to strip the old chrome off of them because there are a lot of small rust spots that have come through. I plan to coat with a primer first, since they will see the elements a lot. What is a good price to tell him?

I’m useing a hand held buffer. When I pull the buffer of the part to apply more compound and then get back on my part I can not get exactly back on where I left off. Then I see a line. So how do i remove these lines? Any help would greatly be appreciated!

I’m in the planning stages of putting together a small PC setup. My initial focus will be smaller automotive parts (calipers, valve covers, suspension parts, etc.). I understand it is probable that I will outgrow my purchases, but I am looking for a small initial investment (~$1k).

Gun – I am considering everything entry level from Harbor Freight, Eastwood, and Caswell. I am leaning towards the EW dual voltage gun mainly because I like the idea of the container being under the gun. Is this really an issue? What’s the gun of choice in the couple hundred dollar range?

Compressor – I already have this, just need to add a regulator and water trap (which I should have done a long time ago).

Curing – Mainly looking at the HF 110v oven but would like to know more about curing using lamps vs. ovens since they fall in the same price range but seem more useful. I have a feeling they don’t preform as well though for some reason.

Prep – Looking at a small Bad Boy Blaster. I know this is going to come up short but blasters are expensive. It should be enough to get me started though.

Area – I plan on spraying in an open area (indoors, no booth) and was thinking of using some wire shelves i have to hang/set parts on. This is one of the reasons I’m interested in curing lamps. If I could spray on the shelving and then put the curing lamps in place that would be nice (but not at the expense of the finish).

Let me know what you think and thanks in advance.

Hello everyone… Ok im going to give a run down of what i have going on and why… I have been powder coating small parts out of my garage for a while now. I have just been using an old natural gas oven i picked up for free.. It has worked great for me.. well my son and i deceided we were going to tear down our quads and pc the frames. Well my little oven wasnt going to cut it so i deceided to build a bigger one. My plan was to build a 3×3x6 tall and just use the parts out of my gas oven. Well after talking to almost anyone and everyone i could, I was just about to purchase metal studs and sheet metal and go at it. then a buddy of mine called me up and suggested that i use drywall as my oven walls because of its high fire rating and it is cheap… at first i thought he was crazy but after i thought about it for a while i figured what the heck… so off i went.. So here is how it went.. I started off with a wood 2×4 frame.. i figured since wood was a bit easier to work with that it would help me out and i planned to cover every piece of wood with drywall, there would not be much of a fire issue.. the inside of the oven i doubled the 5/8 drywall giving me a 1.25 wall thickness all the way around except on the ceiling were i trippled it. i did use metal studs on the floor of the oven where the burner was going because i couldnt see attatching that to wood.. So as my finished product i ended up with a drywall oven that was heavier than hell.. I used a lot of drywall and really felt it was well insulated and over all fell really safe about firing it up… so after firing it up and working out some bugs with ventalation, i was only able to get it up to 320 deg in 30 min.. thats when i went to the computer and started reading…for days..!!! i came across this forum.. it has been a lot of help by the way..after more reading i came to the conclusion that I needed to put sheet metal on the inside of the oven, i figured it would help to get my temp up..so i lined the intire inside with 22guage sheet metal.. well it didnt.. now i couldnt get it past 280 deg.. I figured the metal was needing more energy to heat and my burner wasnt producing it fast enough… so i decieded to pull out the gas set up and convert the whole thing to an electric oven… so now after all that i have a few questions that i hope i can get help with.. and remember that there is no wood exposed, it is covered by at least 1.25 inches of drywall.. I must say though..at the ovens hotest of 320, i felt no heat rise on any of the outside walls so figure it is well insulated with all the drywall.. I have a whirlpool double electric oven that i plan to use both broil elements… they each are 3000w and according to the heat calc. i only need 3800w or so.. i will have 6000w total.. is my math correct.. will these 2 elements be plenty? One of my main questions is even though i have a metal inside..is the drywall, being so thick on the out side going to help or hender me..? It seem to work as a good insulator.. sorry for the long thread but i just wanted to be clear of what i was working with..

Please, enlighten me. On this page I read:

1/3 HP Buffing Machine

* 110 volts
* 3450 rpm
* 4.2 amps
* single phase
* 60hz

which can be translated into the POWER by multiplying VOLTS and AMPS. So, 110V X 4.2A = 462 WATTs. Since 1 HP is approx. 740W , the power of the motor is 0.62 HP, which is approx. 2/3 HP and not 1/3 HP.

Is the efficiency of the motor 50% only. I think that electrical motors have efficiency around 80-90%.

So, please, help me out. What is wrong with my calculation ?

:shock:

Hi everyone, I have a part that has several 4-40 threaded holes. I need to come up with a way to stop the anodize process from getting into these holes. How can I protect them? I was thinking about trying rubber cement just dabbed over the holes. I assume that this would be done just before going into the ano tank.

Has anyone used "Solder-It" or the Muggyweld "Super Alloy #1" to repair a broken Pot-Metal piece?
The Driver’s Door "remote" mirror, off my ‘73 Chevy Laguna, broke off right where the stalk joins the mirror head. Being a "Remote" mirror, the stalk is hollow and contains the three adjuster cables. I am not concerned about protecting/preserving the original chrome plating, only in effecting a proper repair that will last as long as the original casting did (37 years + or -).
Or, would I be better served grinding off the chrome plate and just "piling on" J-B Weld?
I would appreciate comments from folks who have actually used any of the above products to repair a Pot-Metal part like a mirror (as opposed to a non-stressed "trim" part).
Any valid information appreciated.

I have some anodizing equipment I have left over from my anodizing business.I want to sell it as a package since I am giving whoever gets it one hell of a deal.Here is a list.

• Mastech 20 amp 30 volt power supply cc and cv currents barely used.
• 1 brand new titanium heater from caswell.
• almost 2 pounds of the sp degreaser
• about 3 or 4 pounds of some commercial degreaser I bought from acidrain the anodizer on here.
• 1 pound of sealer from caswell
• 1 quart of desmut from caswell
• 2 gallon mix of orange 3a
• 2 gallon mix of yellow 4a
• 2 gallon mix of copper
• 2 gallon mix of grey
• about 100 dollars worth of ti wiring i used from racking

Added up this comes out to be 450+ worth of stuff and most of these chemicals are brand new!!

I want 335 shipped