ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

just did 2 jobs, charcoal metallic and gun metal metallic, both came out blotcy where you can see light and dark ares. what am i doing wrong with these. I do solids fantasic, just not metallics

Anyone else having problems with them shipping items lately? i ordered soemthing 2 weeks ago and they havent even shipped it yet. called in and kept getting " will ship by ___" and they said i should get it this friday.

i havent had much luck with any of the powder supplies. Columbiacoatings sent me their powders without packing it right and i lost about 2lbs of powderb ecause it explldoed and mixed in. they never answered my emails or returned my calls and i only ordered from PBTP once before. Im hoping that this is just a glitch (abiet a very very inconvient one because i have a customer waiting for this particular color) and i can count on PBTB next time.

Im in the process ofstarting my first oven build and was wondering what size heating elements and how many I need, and what size blower is needed to heat and recirc an oven that is about 123 sp feet Thanks

Hi Ed
My question is about hooking up a PID to my house (garage) pc oven. I use it quite a bit, but controlling the temp is really getting stupid. I basically have to baby sit the thing. I was thinking that if I could hook it up with a PID I could control it much better. I know there was a thread concerning the same thing, I just can’t locate it. Can you help me out? Would you need the diagram from the stove?
Thanks, JT

HI all,,
I am working on razor restorations, recently got Baldor 1800 rpm buffer to facilitate my work.
I use greaseless all the way to 600, then Emery. Emery is supposed to remove the 600 grit scratches and leave near mirror finish. To speed up the 600 scratch removal I run the blade at different angles to the wheel. My problem is after the 600 grind marks are removed I am left with fine scratches from the Emery wheel. My question is what is the right way to work with Emery, to avoid my problem?

Thanks.

Hello everyone rookie here just getting started in the powder coating world looking for wisdom, I started looking around at ovens for sale and realized that building my own was the best way to go. I went around 2day priceing the metal I needed the studs 20 ga 2×4x8 are $5 each 20 ga gal. sheet so far is $57 a sheet. The oven size is O.D. 4W x 8T x 4D (the size of a sheet so to limit my waste) Im still decideing on to use gas or elect. Gas would need to be picked up, where I have access to the elect. Im needing to know from all of you wise men which is the most cost efective route. As far as elect. goes how much does it cost to run an oven, how many elements will I need to heat an oven of that size, Any Info will be appricated

hi all,scot living in ireland since chidhood,have two lads one 21 and one 14,good lads,train u14b local soccer team,love doing it with them,feel like im almost still playing ,any way heres the problem im finding with polishing up a aluminium frame from a motorbike,it was quite badly scratched so i went at it with a greaseless 80 git compound,then a 150 and then a 300,first mistake im thinking….im getting a ripple sort of effect,should i just use a 80 grit and then move on to a polishing compound with a spiral mop???
not really to sure read somewhere and saw the kit on sale here,and that seems to be the way,hope someone can tell me the correct way as my arms are nearly broke trying to get rid of the ripple effect.cheers.

jambo

Just got done building a curing oven, and I think we have most of the bugs working out, except 1. We are using a TET612 PID and the temp on the ambient temp (PV) is reading WAY off from the actual temp. Its a type K thermocouple. When the PID reads about 88F degrees, I’m getting almost 200F from both a oven hanging thermometer and a hand held infrared. Looking over the TET612 manual, I see that they show a connection/resistor from terminal 8 and 10, but I never see anything that says that its needed, or what the value should be. Any help you can give me on this would be great. This is pretty much the last think we need to get resolved.

Thank you very much in advance!

Brian

Hello all, I am getting back in to powder coating and a in the design part of my oven. I called around to find prices on sheet metal. I need 6 sheets and can buy 4×10x22ga galvanized for $360 or cold roll 24ga for $194. Just wanted to see the thoughts of which way to go from the oven buliders out there. Thanks

I was going to edit the other thread, but realised i couldn’t, so anyway, here it is.
My first buffing job from a complete porous cast, i’m really proud of the results for a preliminary polish, but there’s a bit more touching up to do, and i’m going to concentrate on technique. Always looking for that better finish. It’s going into a race-car and alot of it will be covered, so there are areas i didn’t focus on heavily, but once everything else is done it should look nice.
Finished off with green compound for the shine.
Process was, black compound with sisal just to knock the cast down and see the surface.
80 greaseless
120 sandpaper on a drillbit
240 on a drillbit
320 on a drillbit
A little hit with 400 wet by hand, with soap just to shine up and assess the surface.
black emery with cloths on a dremel and the angled buff drill
brown compound with dremel and angled buff drill
white and a little green mix for the inside on the dremel
then green all over on the angle buff drill.
Was basically experimentation just to see what worked and what didnt, i think i have a good process mapped out now for next time.
The finish rivals chrome but could be a little clearer in places, always trying to improve.
Appreciate any comments, suggestions or pointers

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