ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

what is the main ingredient in the nickel bath disposal liquid?

I picked up a hardly used oven that I would say is mostly complete, except lacking ways to hang and or hold parts. I have to get my garage wired for 220 for this and my compressor so I haven’t had a chance to mess with it yet.

Inside dimensions: 42"W X 42"H X 64"L – 4 elements.

I would like to add a blower or fan of some sort based off the size to help limit hot and cold spots. How are people mounting there fans? What size do I need and what is the best way to eliminate the fan blowing on the parts directly?

What would people recommend for ways to hold parts? I have an idea for a way to mount a few tracks accrosss the top for both hooks to hang on and for heavier items to bolt to. I will have to make an assortment of brackets etc for this. On the bottom, I would like a way to sit heavier items such as frames, engine blocks, wheels etc.

Thanks

Okay, I put some aluminum in the acid and let it sit for a few days.

I went to titrate and it didn’t see any aluminum.

My question is does the aluminum content fall to the bottom or is the aluminum soluable?

Hi,

I work in a body shop in a small town in Colorado. I have an 06 Chrysler 300C & want to black chrome all the chrome. We’ve experimented with adhesion promoters & tinted clear coats. Its been easy to achieve the color I want, but adhesion is another matter. Someone mentioned electroplating kits, and here I am.

Are the chrome parts (window trim, grill, emblem, belt molding, mirrors) chrome or nickel plated plastic . I’m asking because in the Black Krome descriptions, it states the chrome plating must be stripped first.

Should I be looking at brush or immersion plating? What are the advantages/disadvantages/suggested methods I should use?

There are a few parts that I’m not sure how they would react to be immersed in an electroplating solution:

Parts that are part rubber & part chromed plastic (window moldings)
My grill is partly chromed & partly painted- would immersion plating plate the chrome part only?

Can a person purchase a kit & with a little practice produce good results? Or am I expecting too much?

Thanks for your time, I have never seen or heard of this before today.

Chad

i have been reading on thos forum for some time now and i will be building my own oven.
i currently have a basic kitchen oven i use. but i will be building a 4×4x8ft oven

i have the structure built now. i made it out of 2×4 metal studs.

Heres some pix of it.

Also i am lookin into useing this "Brain Box" The $265 one
control panels for custom ovens

i would like to use this rock wool mineral insulation.
Auralex 2" Mineral Fiber Insulation @ TrueSoundControl.com
2 inch and fill in the other 1 3/4 – 2 inches with fiberglass.
to keep costs down of course.
any onput on this?

i would like to use a fan in it also.
any one know where i can find one?

also thinking about useing round 26g sheet metal outside and 24g inside.
any input on that?

what does everyone use for a wondow and a inside light?

i think thats all my questions for now.
Thanx N|ck

I have been successfully anodizing parts (6061-T6) for several weeks now using the following
- 6 amps/sq ft cd
- 1:2 acid to water ratio 6063-T6 Cathode
- 69-72 degree bath temp
- 2 full hours in bath for 1mil build
- agitation using aquarium pump
- 140 degree black dye
- nickel acetate sealer

Now my black parts are starting to show very faint streaks of dark purple. I am guessing that since each dip in the dye introduces small amounts of acid no matter how well I rinse that it is time to correct the dye ph? Does this seem like I am on the right track and is this what most do? I cant think of anything else that may have changed in my process. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey guys, I’m doing a larger splash job, they want matching splash that goes into piece to piece.
So I’m thinking of laying down the pieces on a microfiber cloth after the splash colour is dyed, Apply rubber cement while its laying on the cloth, so I can lay the parts beside each other.
Will laying it down on the cloth ruin the anodized layer?
Or any suggestions?

wondering if it’s possible or if anyone has done it. i’ve seen some paints that claim to stand up to 1200 degrees.

seems like it may work and might be ideal for some custom artwork with a clear powder coat. later.

I have a exhaust set off a motorcylce that needs to be powder coated in high temp black just the end tips. Is the chrome surface a good enough surface to adhere the powder to or does it need to be stripped? Or can it be scuffed up to powder? Any suggestions would be apperciated.

Thanks