ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

I have a spoke rim that i coated 2 coats of dark dark brown on and customer wants it black now. No need to mention the pain to strip. Can I scuff with bead blaster and recoat black without stripping all the way down? The material used was tiger tgic and same will be going over.

I was in our local hardware store yesterday to pick up some fittings to build my hopper. I was also browsing and was looking at the plumbing pipe. I noticed on the 3/4" sch 40 PVC the pressure rating was 600 psi at 73 degrees. and the CPVC (hot or cold pipe) was rated at 4?? psi at 73 degrees.
So why couldn’t a person use the pvc pipe for air lines?
The pvc will not rust. Yes a person would need to have a few more supports on the line but they are cheap. Would need to connect to the tank with a short rubber line to keep down viberation (but that needs to be done when using metal lines also).
What would be the problem?
bikerdad46

PS: When plumbing Inspectors test a new house. It has air in the lines and a guage to test of leaks.

Hey guys, been a while since I was last on. I’ve been planning out makeing a larger oven then what I have now (Krups 6 slice computer controled toaster oven, works awsome for $180). Im planning around a 30"x15"x15" oven. My original plan was to simply gut my current oven of its parts and install them into the new one once its built. But I was wondering if it is posible to simply get some nichrome wire and string a new heating "mat" by weaving the wire back and forth many times to get a more even heat distribution then simply trying to use the 6 11 3/8" elements my current oven has (3 on top and bottom).

Think this would work? Id like to keep this thing on 120v power to keep things simpler for me down the road, I dont realy do anything super huge. This oven would let me do valve covers and such, and possibly shoe horn in my big 2.6l 4 cylinder engine. any thoughts?

Anyone know if this is available for powder coating?

Im not really familiar with how they does these coatings, such as "jet hot" etc.. but I would assume its a partially curing powder coat that cures with use.

Is there a ceramic power coating available for manifolds that will take temperatures up to 1600deg F?

I need an oven just big enough to cure a barreled rifle or shotgun action. It doesn’t need to get much hotter than 300 degrees although 350 or 400 might be better just to be on the safe side. It just needs an interior space of about 1ft x 4ft. I prchased a locker that is 15inches x 15inches and 5 feet high interior wise. I also have a 220 plug that fits the outlet I installed to run my mill and lathe. After that, I have no Idea what I am doing. After scanning this forum it appears I need insulation, an element that will fit inside the locker once it is insulated, some sort of controller and a thermostat to control the controller. I don’t know if I need a fan or not for a smaller oven like I am thinking of. If anyone could give me a little direction I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Rick

I’m very new to plating. I restore cars and tools and this time I’m restoring a 1952 Logan metal lathe. It was very rusty and had been sitting in the rain for years. After derusting it in an electrolytic derusting bath and sometimes some phosphoric acid, the metal is bare and need protection.

I bought the brush plating kits (copper and copy chrome) to give it some protection from rust (in Houston, high humidity is a real problem) and make it look nice.

After playing with brush plating for a while I like it, but it seems like immersion is better for what I’m doing (mostly small levers, bolts, handwheels, etc.). Since the area is larger I’m using a 500mA setting on my power supply (my own) instead of the 300mA setting on the brush plating setup.

The copper goes on quick with this setup (probably less than 1 minute), and is easily buffed to a nice finish. Then the copy chrome takes longer, and always turns out grey. It buffs nice with some white rouge, but I’m not sure it should have to be buffed so much.

I have three questions.
1. How long should I leave it in the chrome to give it good corrosion protection (the brush plating solution seems to work faster than the other kits?)?
2. Am I doing something wrong for the chrome to come out grey?
3. I chromed a knob with some knurling. How do I polish that? Vibratory tumbler? If so, what abrasive? It doesn’t have to be immaculate, just a little shinier would be nice.

I know I should probably move to a real immersion kit, but this seems to work pretty well (I’ve gotten some beautiful results after buffing, but not sure how well it’ll hold up) and frankly I don’t have the money to get into a big kit.

Sorry for posting such a newbie question. Please let me know if there is some FAQ I should read before posting stuff like this. I searched for relevant posts, but I don’t see much about the brush plating kits.

Thanks!!
Keven

I bought a 6×4x4 oven from Wise Guys Fabrication. I want list it on ebay but I dont have the specs on it. I cant find there website. Does anyone have any info on these ovens?

Seasons Greetings,

I’ve been scouring this forum pickup up lots of great information. I am a noob planning a 4′x4′x8′ oven that I will use to cure carbon fiber parts. The max temperature that I may use is 350 F but I will probably stick with the lower temp prepreg fabrics that cure at 250-275 F. A typical cure cycle involves starting at room temp, ramping 3 deg F/min to 275 F, cure for 60 minutes, let cool in oven to temp under 100 deg F.

The oven will live in my unheated garage (Nashville, so typical winter temp in garage is around 45-50 deg F). I have a 220V 40A circuit (so, 8800 watts).

I have created the following parts list for an oven.

- Auber PID Controller with ramp/soak (PID Temperature Controller w/ Ramp/soak, Kiln (SSR Output) [SYL-2352P] – $77.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry)
- three Auber 25A SSR (one for each 2600w heating element) (25A SSR [RS1A40D25] – $15.00 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry), will also buy three heatsinks
- Auber 6" thermocouple, K type (K Type Thermocouple w/ 6 (150 mm) Probe [WRNK-171] – $13.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry)
- three 2600w heating elements
- 24 gauge galvanized steel sheet for walls
- 3" thick mineral wool insulation
- 25A MG high temp wire
- metal wall studs
- build hardware

I need a high temp fan but I haven’t found anything specific, yet. Any recommendations?

Am I missing any other electrical components?

I do have a few questions that I haven’t been able to find answers to.

What mounting block or component do I need to connect wires to the heating elements and to mount the heating elements to the oven? I haven’t come across what is typically used.

Do I need to insulate the floor?

Also, has someone created a wiring diagram for a PID/SSR/heating element setup?

Thanks!

Dave

I have a 67 Fairlane. I am in process of repairing working the dents out of the headlight buckets. I have been told that the headlight buckets are anodized. They appear bright, but I am sure that the sanding and polishing I have to do to repair the dents and dings will remove some of the anodizing.

I’m willing to try anything once. My questions:

1. Will I have to remove all of the anodizing to re-anodize the pieces? If so, what is the easiest way?

2. I want to match the current anodizing. It appears to be bright metal. Is this most likely standard anodizing or is it polished?

3. Any idea how much this would cost to have professionally done?

Okay, it ran a flat 4×5" aluminum (6063-t5) part it was scrap from my cathodes.

Well I ran the part and check it with a conductivity meter and it reads nothing so it has some anodizing

Then the color I dyed it in is black and even though the color came out as a lighter black it has a slight touch of blue in it.

What is the cause of the blueing?