ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

Okay. So when your rinse tanks and such get dirty. How do you go about and drain the tank and clean it?

What exactly is the purpose of the fan? As I understand, it is used to homogenize the air, that is, ensure the air is the same temp. throughout the oven by "mixing" it. Do you actually want a draft? It seems to me that a draft would remove heat from the oven and cause a "stream" of cooler air and cause hot spots. I ask because I am trying to choose a fan, and the purpose will dictate which fan I choose. Thanks in advance.

There has been a noticeable decrease in metal polishing posts here. Have the once regular polishers lost interest? Or is this just a lull in the natural rhythm of things? Anyone else noticed this? I miss reading the posts by guys such as mpierich. I haven’t seen him for ages. He used to post almost every day.

R

I was playing around in the garage with a set up to plate copper and thought i would see if i could transfer some stainless steel the same way so i used some stainless steel wire as my anode bakeing soda as my electrolite the solution turned a slight blueish color i first used a penny for the chromode end ended up with what looked like a chromed penny the plate was very good and dorable so i used the same method on a throtle bracket on my sons car i polished it up on my polish wheel and could not get over the results the wire i used turned very rusty so im assumeing i stripped it of what ever they use to make it stainless a little insight to whats going on here would be great ive been thinking of buying the copy chrome kit from caswell i would like to do home chromeing there seems to be alot of risk and dealing with chromium is a epa danger is the home copy chrome safer to use and does it have the same epa issues as chromium thanks for any response you may have for me

I am PCing a part made from 1/2" aluminum (plate). My powder (satin black) just says "400 degrees for 20 minutes". I pre heat the oven, and belt sand the piece for a brushed aluminum finish and clean with either lacquer thinner or xylanol. The finish doesn’t seem to flow out very smooth and after curing, it has some areas that are very rough. I have completely stripped it and redone with the same results. I have also tried sanding the first coat smooth and recoating with the same results.

Would trying to flow out at less temperature for a short time and then cure at 400 work better?

I can’t seem to make a good part.:(

First of all i am fairly new to ano.
been doing smaller parts with good results using 720 rule.

Here my question on larger parts
632 square inches parts or 4.39 square foot
my power supply is 30v @ 20amp max (Mastech)
so with the 720 rule i am ano at 4.33 asf
with the caculation i ano @
4.33asf
19amps
10.83 max volts
124 minutes

but on the power supply using CC
my amp is at 19 amps
but the volts read 14 vdc, 720 rule says 10.83 max
if i adjust the volts the CC goes away
Will these parts ano right with the volts at 14?
I put parts in bath (25 gallon) to take initial reading before i start a run.

Thanks
Jason

I am totally new to powder coating. I am starting a motorcycle project this winter, doing an old school Clubman out of a Honda CB 450. The wheels are spoked with chrome rims and I thought of doing them all black. Is it possible to PC them while they are assembled or do I have to do all seperately. I’ve seen some done but not sure of the method.

Hello,

I had the outer fork tubes from my motocross bike anodized gold recently. They are an older type, so they are composed of two separate aluminum pieces (the main tube and a ring that holds the oil seal in place).

Anyway, it appears that oil is somehow seeping up through these rings and staining the main tubes. I used a little bit of transmission oil to lubricate the seals and make them easier to install, so I think that whatever is left of that continues to find its way up my forks.

I clean them regularly and I’m able to remove the oil from the main tubes every time. However, when I check them the next day, the oil has seeped back up. So, no matter what I do, I cannot keep these forks clean.

I’ve tried to break the oil down by spraying hot water and simple green into the gap between the main tube and the ring, but that hasn’t gotten me anywhere. I’ve scrubbed with a toothbrush and soap, but that hasn’t done the trick either.

Can anyone recommend something to clean them with that will break down the source of this oil, but won’t damage the anodizing?

Here’s a picture. That discoloration you see near the ring is the oil (or whatever it is). It looks more dramatic in person. I really doubt that the fork seals are broken as there is nothing seeping down onto the hard-chromed lower forks. It’s a really odd situation and very frustrating to a crazy perfectionist like myself.

I’ve noticed that this anodized coating is highly sensitive to stains. Even touching the forks will leave a stain that requires soap and water to remove. Is this normal?

Any help is very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Patrick

Figuring full load at 55 amps (bigger elements) L1 and L2 on separate breakers. So looking at the following diagram, if L1 is wired directly to the breaker through the plug and L2 is through the SSR does the SSR see the full current (55 A) or only the current supplied through the L2 (27.5A) leg? Also what good is the 4 wire system if the neutral and the ground are tied in the breaker box?

Hi All,
first post…. here it goes…..
I am in the process of getting set up to powder coat some part for my ‘50 Chevy. I have a set of Mickey Thompson valve covers that I would like to coat the lower cast portion, leaving the raised machined surfaces polished aluminum. Okay now here’s the question, can I fog the whole V/C and using a damp rag, remove the powder from the raised area? or do I need to mask the raised area before fogging? How do I go about getting a crisp line with the masking tape after the part is cooled enough to handle? I would imagine the tape to be "trapped" under the coating.