ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

I have an engine block I wanna PC, I heard that by doing so the engine will run hot cause PC will keep the heat in and the PC will actually hamper the way the block cools. Does anyone know anything about this? Has anyone ever PC a Block and drove the car around for awhile??? THanks

Hi,

I am new here and surely will appreciate advise from the experts. I would like to repair a dent and a few scratches on a very rare and valuable pistol magazine which is made of pure nickel. It has a small damage in one area (perhaps 1/4×1/8" with a few sctatches a dents up to perhaps 1/32-1/16" deep). So I came to this idea filling this defects (after masking) using one of the PaP kits with nickel plating. Is it feasible? I know it is going to be tedeous but I do not mind as the mag is irreplaceble and i do not want to use any soft metals/soldering, heating, etc. Any advise suggestions how to do it practically?
Thanks

I bought a reproduction olds/cadi air cleaner and it has a black coating which seems to be a good clean base. Can I powder over that?

So I did a normal run today, smaller than usual (72 sq. in).
So I did as I normally would.
Stripped, approximately 8mins stripping. It was brand new machined parts, didn’t think they needed much.
Buffed polished.
Degreased for approximately 10minutes. Passed WB test.

Ano Tank
So for my 72 sq in. I set the Amp to 4.5 for a CD of 9. with a 0.9mm layer, 72mins in the tank.
It started off normal 22v seemed to be my peak (as well according to the calculator).
However, it started to raise and soon peaked at 31v (after about 10minutes in the tank), then switched to CV mode.
So I tried again and reset, but now it won’t even go to CC mode, just automatically switches to CV mode.

Does anyone have any ideas on whats happening?
I personally think I might need to strip some more, any tips on stripping for rules?

But just trying to see everyone else’s suggestions until I go back out later on and try it again.

Ok, here is a question I can’t seem to find an answer for. Is there a way to color or dye brass with out plating?. I have brass pieces that I want a bright color (green, red etc) not just nickel. Any thoughts?

Has anyone used the liquidguard before powdercoating?? Im just wondering how it works… Thanks

So I got a 20 gallon pressurized sand blaster from Harbor Freight. I also got #8 / 80 Grit Glass Beads, per people’s suggestion on here, I also got medium grit Baking Soda. So a couple questions. I just want a nice even matte finish, oh and to remove the machining marks.

I’m going to build my own enclosure with plywood and plexiglas, I think it’s going to be 32" wide x 24" high x 24" Deep.

Any hits or tips anyone can give? Thanks.

I´ve just got some bike pieces that im pretty sure are cast aluminum, but i have my doubts, i´ve made the alloy test using caustic soda, but the color wasnt really showing, so i couldnt tell the alloy of the pieces, is there any way to know is a piece is a cast aluminium, and to know the alloy?

Just getting ready to place an order and wanted to make sure I had this sorted out right…

I’m restoring an old steel bicycle frame and want to ‘chrome’ a few small areas, mainly the lugs… fancy looking joints between the various tubes. The biggest is somewhere around 15 inches square surface area. The three others are each maybe 3 or 4 inches square.

There are also tubes going back to the rear axle (chainstays) with pre-existing (actual) chrome that could probably stand a little touch up.

Are the plug and plate kits appropriate for this kind of thing (maybe 30 square inches total)? The frame would make any sort of dipping solution a bit awkward. Is P-and-P practical or am I looking at many many hours of making small firm circles?

The lugs are steel (not stainless) with bronze patches from brazing. I was figuring on Copper first then Copy-Chrome. Do the two metals create any problems?

On the chainstays I’m just looking to fill scratches and pits (nothing too bad). My impression is that nothing will plate to the chrome, only to any exposed steel underneath. Just straight Copy Chrome or Copper and then C-C?

I was planning on getting the Copy-Chrome kit plus a copper wand with a bandage and a Copper solution (How far does 8 ounces go?).

Anything I’m overlooking? Any suggestions? A better way to do this?

Thanks

How much would it cost to get my Cam Cover from my 1980 CB900 Custom Chromed or Polished? I just don’t have the time or knowledge to get it shiny like what you guys can.