ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

Hi, as above really, i am trying to obtain a rainbow finish for a piece of steel, the more i research the more i am lead down the plating route.

Can nickel or titanium be plated then a current passed through it to bring out a varety of colours?

Any advice or knowledge is desperetly needed.

Thanks

Ill keep this short and simple. I have very limited space and funds for a pre-built oven, although if I could ever find a oven that is tall and deep but with an id of around 40 inch wide and tall enough to do motorcycle frames I would hop on it. I don’t want to just jump into this, but reading the oven forums I know I need help.

So is there anyone in the bay area that I can learn from, or can anyone assist in finding an oven for around 1k?

David

Hey guys just getting started and have some questions
So far I have a harbor freight gun Modfied to use a cup off the gun and that works great
Got a new 5 hp 19cfm at 90 eaton compressor and ref air dryer
Got the plans for the pa blaster to convert my harbor freight pressure blaster for use in my 5×4x5 blasting cabinet
mostly plan on doing wheels and anything else I can fit in my oven
Running into a issue with media cost and what size grit to run
Northern tool has amberblast for 10 bucks a bag but Im not sure what grit to run for paint removal and giving my parts a decent tooth for the powder
amy help with what kind of media to run and if that amberblast is worth my time
so far i have done a few air cleaner lids and some brackets for my nova just using a wire cup brush a drill and harbor freight powder
stuff turned out good before gun mods and great after
Thanks a bunch
Josh

I’ve got 4 sheets of 16ga galvanized already at the house (cheap = free). I’ll be needing 4 sheets of probably 18-20ga aluminum to finish the job. Which one should I do the inside with, which one the exterior.

I like the strength of the galvanized over the aluminum for an exterior covering. Since it’s going to be a mobile oven (small garage and will need moved constantly for space requirements) having a harder material on the exterior would prevent it from looking like something my neighbor would drag into his front yard. On the other hand, having the harder material inside would be better from a longevity standpoint exposed to heat. Plus the aluminum on the outside would be shiny (pretty for the wife to see in the garage)

Anyone have other ideas? I’m not stuck on using either/or, and I’d have no problem buying 5 more sheets of galvanized, or buying 9 sheets of aluminum or lighter ga steel.

If it matters, internal 3×3x6′/4×4x7′ external oven, it’ll be riveted over 6" steel stud channel and 4" steel studs set alternating inside/outside to insulate the inside from the outside (prevent heat transfer to the outside walls), 4ea 3300W elements, 4way contactor, recycled oven electronic timer/thermostat…pics once I’m done….unless the house burns down around it.

I need some nuts, bolts and spoke nipples zinc plated for a motorcycle. Its only a small batch and the local plater has a $75 min dollar order. Everything needs to be bright except the nipples and they need to be gold cad. If you can help call me at 269-753-2324. I will pick up and deliver all parts to you. Thanks.

Ron S

I want barrel plate 500 or more bullits at a time, and I want them to be shinny without the need of hand polishing. I Read that Flash Copper plus Pickle # 4 is the best solution to Strike with. then to Bright Copper for the finished product. Is this the right approach?

I have to rework my broken oven quickly, and while I’ve been studying oven building in order to construct a large oven, I’m not prepared to do it yet.

The oven in question is a re-purposed kitchen oven, and it used to hold temperature very closely before the thermostat died. I guess after 30 years, that can happen.

I want to go the PID route, as it is definitely more cost effective than replacing the thermostat/switch, and much simpler than rewiring the oven to use cheap oven parts that are not exact replacements. The oven in question uses two 240 VAC heating elements, one 2600 Watt, and one 3000 Watt. I’d like to control both at the same time, as the oven was originally designed, and since both draw about 23.3 Amps together, I should be able to switch them both with a 40 Amp SSR or contactor.

Do I need a timer? Do I want a timer? Is there such a thing as a PID with a timer built in? The Crumby Martha Stewart oven timer I have been using is anything but accurate. I see Auber Instruments offers a snazzy timer for a decent price, but it almost seems like overkill. Has anyone used one?

Speaking of Auber Instruments, I was thinking of using them for everything I need. Is their basic SYL-1512A PID going to be okay? I have no problem spending a little more on a different model. I’m not cheap, I just want something that I will be pleased with. Maybe I want to be able to control the ramp up rate in order to help powders flow a bit smoother?

SSR’s versus contactors… Would the SSR’s be worth the extra expense and headache of using heat sinks, etc?

I don’t want hand-holding, but I’m completely unprepared for this. A little guidance would be more than welcome. Ideally, I’d like to be able to order the parts before the weekend arrives.

I think it’s time for a Brush Plating Forum. Since you’ve introduced your Professional Gold and Black Chrome Kit. I’m sure there are many questions to be answered. Or would this be detrimental to the marketing program?
Thanks,
Eric Alstad
254-681-0396
eric.10@juno.com

im looking to powdercoat my wheels a dark navy blue type color, anyone know where i can find something like that? i checked columbia coatings and the only dark blue i found was ford dark blue and its not dark enough

Hello

I have a friend who wants his cold side of the turbo painted hot pink… But I do not want to use a normal powder because I’m afraid the turbo will get to hot from a prolonged session of boost and cause the coating to melt. Does anyone here have experiences in this or tried this before? I am going to run my turbo on my car hard tomorrow and check the temps to see how hot it gets. Also Since the hot side of the turbo gets to be glowing red at some points will the heat from that melt the surface of the power coated part? ( The hot side will be ceramic coated aslo)

Thanks and does anyone know if they make high temp powders in other colors then black and silvers?