ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

A friend and I are building an prototype oven for a project not remotely related to powdercoating, but believe it or not this forum has been hugely helpful.

His father made a great little niche for himself in the banquet business in the Houston area by oven roasting whole pigs, deer, goat, small steers etc. and then rolling them out and carving the meat right off to the plates. Basically, its the same set up, size, and use of trolley carts that y’all use here, only all stainless.

Jay’s father unfortunately lost all of his oven equipment when Ike tore across the Galveston area. Jay and I got the idea we’ll build him a set of new ones and save him the time and effort of doing it himself since a commercially bought one is obscenely expensive.

We’ve run into a snag. The rivets we used to join the studs to the outside are getting really hot. Too hot to touch. We know this wasn’t a problem in the ones he built for himself, so we need to fix this.

Does anyone have ideas on what we might have missed or could do that will prevent the studs from carrying the heat to the rivets to the outside? I’d tear my home oven apart to see how that suspends the oven inside the shell, but I’m afraid my girlfriend would go Loreena Bobbit if I so much as scratch it.

I have a valve cover im trying to powder coat off of a like 1992 honda accord and it has some sort of steal plate on the back side. The combination of chemicals and heat have seemed to have done some things to this plate to give it some surface flash rust. Im not worried about that, because its going to be covered in oil, and not going to rust. But the valve cover seems to have some sort of seal between the aluminum and steal, that is cracking. Is this going to cause a problem? Im thinking that just might be for electrolysis, anyone have any idea, heres a pic of it

Please, any help is appreciated…

I had a set of wheels powdercoated with dupont matte black ( UFB 551s2 ), now I’m trying to have the plastic center caps matched.

Does anyone have any advise to ensure an accurate match?

Thanks in advance!

Do you calculate the surface area of threads? I have some parts to run with threaded holes in them. Although there are not enough threaded holes to make much of a difference in the amps, I was wondering for future reference. I was planning on calculating the surface area of the hole itself then doubling it for the threads. Although not 100% accurate I’m thinking that should get me pretty close. Any thoughts?

Dan

Had a quick question,

If I am powder coating high temperature plastic automotive parts, like intake manifolds, etc…, will there be enough current for the powder to cling to the part or will it resist the current because of it’s polymer base?

The reason I ask is due to the fact that I have seen some plastic intake manifolds done, but couldn’t figure out what current they are using or how the process was preformed.

Thanks guys

Anyone know what to charge for a bike frame with forks and handle bars??? done in one color and Im sure stripping…. I was thinking 100.. What do you guys think……. Thanks

Where can I find high temp wire? what gauge High temp & regular electrical wire should I use? Do I have to use the high temp wire if the wire will not be directly exposed to the inside of the oven? Thanks for any answers in advance.

i have finish wiring my oven and cycled it on and off a few times, today i decided i was going to bring it up to 200 degrees and at about 180 the contactors blew. i have 6000w on each 40 amp contactors. what could of gone wrong.
here is a pic of my box

so i’ve done my first large successful ano job, and the coating on one piece is really hard – wire brushes can’t even scratch. the other piece, anodized at the same time, took exacto knife scratches. hm

but the point is that i’m trying to stencil and paint some graphics over the dyed and sealed piece, but nothing seems to stick. when i pulled off the stencil (can said 15 minutes curing time, 1 hour to handle) it takes half the paint off. even an hour later i can scrape it off with a fingernail.

but since the guys at my local hardware have confused sulfuric with sodium hydroxide before , they can hardly be trusted.

IS there an easily available paint for use on anodized, dyed and sealed surfaces? I’d order one from Caswell if so but i needed it here two days ago. lotta trial and error here..

I may have posted up something about this a while back, but I finally got a semi-decent video to show what I’m talking about. Basically, it’s a 60 gal compressor I bought from Northern Tool about 2 years ago. Here’s a link to some specs, the compressor has now been discontinued: Amazon.com: – Industrial Air Cast Iron Pump Compressor – 3.6 HP, 60 Gallon, Model# ILA7006056: Home Improvement

When the compressor kicks on, it starts pumping, then slows down pretty drastically. Over the course of 3-5 minutes, it will slowly build up speed. I thought maybe the pump was starting to seize, so I tore it down and couldn’t find anything wrong (cylinder bores still had crosshatches). I thought it was the pressure switch, so I replaced it with a new unloader valve, still the same thing. I checked the check valve on the top of the tank, seems to move freely.I cannot figure out what the problem is! Tank is only at about 55psi when I flip the switch on

BTW: Someone had mentioned to me that it could be the motor, but when this first started, I heard the belt slipping on the pulley. IT doesn’t do this in the video, but if that’s the case I don’t see how it could be the motor.

Here’s the link to the video. it’s in .3g2 format, I’m working on finding a converter if others cannot view this file type.

EDIT: Found a cheap converter, got it in AVI format as well

3G2 File (2.5 MB)

AVI File (15.3 MB)