ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

First off this is my first post and I would like to thank everyone for lots of great information ..

OK now to what im up too.. I have 4 rims off of a 1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix ..
heres some pics

Now I think there Aluminum but would like to know if theres a way to test that .. I have tried a magnet and that dosent stick so there not steal but how do i make sure there not say Magnesium..

What I plan with these rims is to clean them up strip the centers , polish the lip and have the centers powder coated black ..

the centers with the lace pattern are going to be a pain in the A$$ to strip . can I use a normal paint striper or will that harm the rim ..

lots more questions in the future Im sure .. I willing and eger to learn all this stuff and have a pretty good shop to work out of just want to do it all right the first time ……

Thanks Jim

I searched, saw it mentioned but no reply was given. Any reason I could not use a cooler for an anodizing tank? Insulated, nice fitting top and they are plentiful and cheap used.

As you can see I’m new around here. Been messing with PCing for about 5/6 years. Mostly as a hobby. Lookin to move forward a bit.

Getting to the point,

I’m looking at doing some ceramic coating. Could be some PCing also. Mostly automotive related in both cases. I was going to go with an electric oven, but a friend of mine thinks natural gas would be better. The oven size is 4 x 4 x 6. Shooting for 600*, but probably work more in the 500* range. I don’t have much knowledge on the matter, only what I’ve read here and over on PBTP. He said that elec heat is uneven producing cold and hot spots. I told him there are fans for circulating the air, but he still thinks gas is better. Supplying gas or elec is no problem, I have access to both.

Your thoughts are greatly needed and appreciated.

Thanks
Mark

I have a set of Aluminum snowflake rims for my 1977 trans am i’ve been messing with the stripper and it’s not going well My friend just bought a portable sand blaster from harbour frieght he will let me use it what media would be the best and cheapest to use to remove the paint and not pitt the aluminum i could duct tape the raised areas not being painted, i do plan on trying to polish the spokes afterwards i kinda started sanding at the top half of the rim if you can tell Attachment 1583

Attachment 1584

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I think I am near the end of the usefulness of the glass bead in my cabinet and may want to try AO in it this time. It is more expensive than GB ($43p/50lb). I use BB when blasting the larger parts outside and am able to reclaim some of which doesnt concern me too much as it is so cheap($8p/50lb). Should I consider using BB in the cabinet over AO? How much differance will I see if using the AO?

I am trying to do a fade. One of the colors involved is teal, the other is pink. I know, I know, but that is what was requested.

The problem I am having is this: when I do the pink side of the piece, the color seems to take without any trouble. When I do the teal side, the dye doesn’t take, or it takes very unevenly. It looks like there is a film of some sort on the part. Some areas saturate with color quickly, while other areas do not take the dye.

My setup has a pump to provide agitation, with the electrolyte routed through a temperature control device. I use a 30 gallon tank at about 11% acid to distilled water. I use an aluminum cathode that is almost 8 sq feet. I typically do runs with up to 2 1/2 sq feet of surface at 6 amps per sq ft using a 25 amp rectifier. I use titanium .125" wire attached to an aluminum frame that rests across the tank’s rim. I use a multimeter to test for conductivity before running parts, to ensure that there is a solid connection between the part and the socket in the frame where I connect the lead from the PS.

Before anodizing, I did a water break test.

I tested the ph of the dye, and it conforms to the 5.5 listed for teal in the dye ph sticky here on this forum. After having trouble getting teal dye to take, I tried another dye and had similar results, poor color uptake.

I am heating the dyes to 140 degrees F before submersing the part.

Has anyone seen this sort of thing? I haven’t had trouble like this before, and I have run other parts without complication immediately before this piece.

Hello
I have a two part question, maybe this forum can help with some of these issues (I am trying to gold plate a suite of different materials that will be in contact with high temperature solutions).

First, I want to gold plate over a nickel plating on a titanium substrate. The gold plated surface will be in contact with a high temperature solution, over a period of a couple of days to a week max. Can this be done? Is Nickel the best suited material to be sandwiched between Titanium and a gold plated surface?

Second, I want to gold plate onto a hastelloy C-type alloy (that gold surface will also contact a high temperature solution up to 300degC and max. one week time period). What type of plating(s) is/are best suited to be sandwiched between the hastelloy C substrate and the top gold plated layer so that the gold plated surface is stable and does not "peel off" or become otherwise detached?

Thanks for any advice in advance
Kono

Hey Guys,
As i am in australia and we use 240v mains power am i able to adapt all the info on wiring my oven that is used elsewhere in the world.
Also as a nooby what are all the parts(tc,pid’s,contactor etc)
What do they look like and what is their job!
I do have 415v three phase in the shed as well ,Am I better off using this and how would the wiring be!
Any shematics would be helpfull!!!
Thanks a lot fellow pc’s……

Hey Guys just wondering if we have any Aussies on this forum!
You no Australian’s from down under!!!

I am looking for a reasonably priced polisher in my area that can polish my Magnesium m/c wheels before I powder coat them.