Archive for February, 2009

Catalog Printing Methods

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under Printing

We cannot deny the fact that catalog is now a soaring industry. Nowadays, catalogs are considered one of the useful tools in advertising and marketing. It can be used to give information to customers and to show pictures of products that can be purchased. In some cases, catalogs will show services that can be offered by certain businesses as well.

You can choose to print your own material catalog or be aided by a professional service. It is still best to use a professional printer if you are creating a large catalog with lots of pictures. However, you can still print catalogs at home if you have the right equipments, including computer programs, paper, and a high-quality printer.

Catalog is more difficult and lengthy in procedure compared to pamphlet or brochure . The reason to this is that it has many pages and each page must be designed to show different products, services, prices and company information. It can be a tedious process thus, it is still best to get hold of a professional printer rather than just experimenting on your own.

Four is mostly used by services and commercial printers. This is because this kind of generates the most clear, vibrant and crisp images. Examples of this kind of can be seen in magazines such as Time, People and National Geographic.

There are several methods used in catalog . The first on is the web press. A web press is an offset press that uses a roll of paper rather than sheets of paper. The use of a roll of paper allows quicker . There are two types of web presses the heat-set and cold-set.

A heat-set web press is the standard catalog and magazine press. It has a heating unit that dries the printed ink as it exits the press. This press allows high speed on coated papers such as gloss. It also produces brilliant, crisp photo reproduction for catalogs. Heat-set web presses are huge, complicated presses that necessitate several people to operate and setup. It is only reasonable to use this type of press for print runs of 10,000 copies or more and in increments of 8 pages, preferably 16. Ninety nine per centum of all mail-order catalogs are printed on this type of press.

Cold-set web press, on the other hand, does not include a heating unit so the printed ink must air dry. This press can only print on uncoated papers which allow the ink to absorb into the paper. Cold-set web press produces a fairly dull, fuzzy photo reproduction for catalogs. This kind of press is smaller and simpler than heat-set web presses, costing less and requiring less setup time. This can be a good press for very small quantity catalog print runs starting at 1,000 copies.

Another method of catalog is the sheet-fed press. This press is a customarily low volume press that prints on pre-cut sheets of paper. Because of its more precise method a sheet-fed press produces the sharpest of these three press types. It can print on a wider variety of paper weights. However, because of its sluggish speed it is the most costly of all the print methods. Sheet-fed press is commonly used for small print runs or job which necessitates the most excellent .

Additional Information about the articles can be found at http://www.catalogprintingexperts.com

Maricon Williams

I love reading. Give me a book and I'll finish it in one sitting. Reading is the chance to be transported to a different world and so is writing. I'm more enthusiastic about writing however, since you can relay your ideas to someone else. I can only imagine that feeling when I hear a complete stranger talking about my ideas which read on an article somewhere. To relay my message to as many people is the same as touching people with music. Only mine's less harmonic. I try to make up for it with the I bring with words. And most of the time, its more than enough.

 

This post is sent to the “ Equipments” section which is providing a networking environment for anyone interested in the metal arts and metal . Original post is in Equipments and titled Catalog Methods.You may want to visit the original page,here.

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Extreme Chrome

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

Got the coated yesterday and thought would post them up. Caswell Extreme Chrome. Nice stuff. By the way, this powder was close to two years old. No clear coat yet.


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Extreme Chrome

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

Got the coated yesterday and thought would post them up. Caswell Extreme Chrome. Nice stuff. By the way, this powder was close to two years old. No clear coat yet.


Attached Thumbnails

Click image for larger version</p>
<p>Name:	100_0428 [640x480].jpg<br />
Views:	N/A<br />
Size:	39.2 KB<br />
ID:	1511
 

Click image for larger version</p>
<p>Name:	100_0427 [640x480].jpg<br />
Views:	N/A<br />
Size:	45.3 KB<br />
ID:	1512
 

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Respirators…

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

I was just wondering what kind of respirators are you using? :mrgreen:

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Respirators…

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

I was just wondering what kind of respirators are you using? :mrgreen:

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vinyl masking problem

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

Hello, I have some 3m vinyl graphics that I had made up just yesterday and well, the release paper on it is exceptionally sticky. The only solution I have found is cut the graphic out around the vinyl, But this is taking allot of time I don’t have and second I have a couple graphics that are so detailed that that process would not be done.

Does anyone know of a release paper or some type of tape that might work that will not leave the ano’d surface sealed from the dye.

I hope y’all understand what I am trying to explain.

By admin Add comment

vinyl masking problem

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

Hello, I have some 3m vinyl graphics that I had made up just yesterday and well, the release paper on it is exceptionally sticky. The only solution I have found is cut the graphic out around the vinyl, But this is taking allot of time I don’t have and second I have a couple graphics that are so detailed that that process would not be done.

Does anyone know of a release paper or some type of tape that might work that will not leave the ano’d surface sealed from the dye.

I hope y’all understand what I am trying to explain.

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masking with bleach?

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

Yesterday I anodized a barrel, dyed it purple, masked it with rubber cement, bleached it in 100% bleach, removed rubber cement, and then sealed it

when I removed the barrel from the sealer it began to turn white/pale. I sprayed it with distilled water, and the white went away, and a couple of seconds later the part dried up and the white came back

It seems that air makes it turn white

I left the part in soapy water overnight, and it still begins to turn white when I remove it from the water

did the bleach cause this? If not, what did? Is there a way to fix it?

thank you.

By admin Add comment

masking with bleach?

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

Yesterday I anodized a barrel, dyed it purple, masked it with rubber cement, bleached it in 100% bleach, removed rubber cement, and then sealed it

when I removed the barrel from the sealer it began to turn white/pale. I sprayed it with distilled water, and the white went away, and a couple of seconds later the part dried up and the white came back

It seems that air makes it turn white

I left the part in soapy water overnight, and it still begins to turn white when I remove it from the water

did the bleach cause this? If not, what did? Is there a way to fix it?

thank you.

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Deplating Nickel

February 28th, 2009 at 07:21pm Under metal finishing

I have a couple of old revolvers that are factory nickel. Old Colts to be exact. An OP and a New Service. Don’t freak, not of great value by any means. I have an old gunsmith book, copyright 1946, by Walter Howe. He talks of a solution for removing nickel. It is comprised of 7 oz. ammonia persulphate, 3 oz. ammonia carbonate, and 2 qts. liquid ammonia 28%. There’s no reference to any electrical source. He simply says, mix these components, place the degreased parts in a pyrex dish and pour the soulution over them until covered with an 1/8" to spare. once the parts show a dull grayish , the nickel is dissolved and will wash of with water. He doesn’t say how long this takes, or if there is any optimum temprature. Anyway, I tried it. Soaked several parts for over 36 hours and the nickel didn’t budge.
What am I missing here? The ammonia I have was noted as 30% and I can only believe it since it will knock you on your butt if you get a whiff of it, and I feel my supplier of the other two components was honest in what he sent me. Am I wasting my time?

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