Archive for December, 2008

qickest and cheepest way to check acid bath mix

December 31st, 2008 at 09:59am Under metal finishing

I need a quick and cheap way to check my mix to see if its close

By admin Add comment

help choosing/question(s)

December 31st, 2008 at 09:59am Under metal finishing

Plating Kits Electroplating Kits Aluminum Anodizing Kits Powder Coating Systems Metal Polishing And Buffing Supplies – Caswell Inc.

(special on front page)

I have been wanting to get a PC system (forever)..

although I dont have any stove/oven for now.. Im looking at the PC system listed on the home page (special)

my question is about this part: 30-50KV

as I dont know much about this by any means.. does this mean doing smaller pieces will be hard to do? as this is too much voltage?

I want to be able to do smaller pieces.. 1.5 O.D. pieces varying in lengths of 1in.-8in… as well as bigger stuff like rims, frames, heads/jugs

will this allow me to do smaller pieces as well as larger pieces? upon searching.. I thought I had read larger ‘V’ makes it harder to do smaller objects?

(off to search about clear a once PC’d piece with )

Thanks for any replies..

By admin Add comment

Orange Peel Effect

December 31st, 2008 at 09:59am Under metal finishing

Hello , I have just finished CC ing my first guinea pig ( motorcycle exhaust tip ) and it came out shiny and bright after buffing but with an "orange peel" effect all over it.They look to be very very fine dimples with a pattern similar to what a fingerprint looks like. As far as I can tell I did it by the book , maybe there was an oversight on my part. I have the 4.5 gallon kit and so far am pleased with how easy it is to use. Thank you to all for any help.

By admin Add comment

isotropic finishing with tumbler, how to

December 31st, 2008 at 09:59am Under metal finishing

anyone have info on how to do an isotropic finish on gears or other small parts?

I seen a few articles online but can’t get any substance out of them, as of the process and what is needed.

thanks

By admin Add comment

thermocouple problem

December 29th, 2008 at 08:16pm Under metal finishing

Hi
I am building my first oven and have a problem with the thermocouple I bought. This is a small probe with a threaded part to hold it in place. I though it was to be screwed into a hole for the tip to contcact a surface for heat transfer. Well the threads are not metric or english (close to 1/4 X 20)
Well I broke the threaded part (cheap brass bad fit). I have another on the way but need to understand how I should mount it. From other posts it seem the probe may be mounted to a bracket in the oven and floating in the threaded part.
Is this true?
The thermocouple is a type "K" came with the PID and SSR I’m sure other have the same setup and it has worked great for them. need to know the threaded size if posible?

Have fun
Tom

By admin Add comment

Acid ph & Dye Q’s

December 29th, 2008 at 08:16pm Under metal finishing

Hi All

Just come to do an ano run after about 3-4 weeks of no use although I have periodically turned the pumps on the circulate dyes etc I have a small problem.

Ran some parts (same parts as I run on a regular basis) neither have dyed very well, they take the colour but it’s dilute compared to the original vivid colour. I have run 5 parts ano’d together then dyed 3 red 2 blue.
Do you think both my dyes are now about usless, they were made up at the same time?

I did notice also that the last blue part I did before my break didn’t look quite as vivid.

Also I top up my ano tank occasionally with D.Water does anyone know what the ideal ph of the acid should be?
Can a weak or too strong acid tank cause this?

If it is my dye running out, do I need to scrap the 25 ltrs or can I buy one tub on dye and replenish rather than replace ?
I have had this dye made up for approx 9-10 months and have used it regularly but not excessivley.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Ishy

By admin Add comment

Chicago gun

December 29th, 2008 at 08:16pm Under metal finishing

I have some issues with powder . It seems that there is not enough current between object and gun. Even if I direct the gun towards the clip there is a small spark, where as there use to be a big one. Any one have a clue?

It is 20F could the cold be the problem or is it the equipment? Maybe a cleaning issue? WHAT!!!

By admin Add comment

which is better?

December 29th, 2008 at 08:16pm Under metal finishing

I am considering buying the Caswell electroless nickel plating outfit to plate shotgun receivers, pistol slides and such. Could anyone enlighten me–what is the difference between the kit that Brownells sell and the Caswell Kit?

By admin Add comment

Stop off lacquer / varnish

December 29th, 2008 at 08:16pm Under metal finishing

Anyone have any experience with using a stop off lacquer on the backside of a motorcycle engine cover? I’ve plated some harley stuff before that had powder coat on both sides, inside and out. I know p/c has high resistance to oil, but how will spray lacquer hold up? I was thinking of just using an uncatalyzed lacquer and then stripping it after plating is done, but do I need to strip it? Any thoughts?

By admin Add comment

temperature woes

December 29th, 2008 at 08:16pm Under metal finishing

Hi folks,

Iv’e just had my 6×6x4′ three pase 415v oven supply connected. It’s controlled by an ERO electronic LMS pid with a Eurotherm 92 over temp monitor keeping guard each fed by their own unkown thermocouple. I’ve been experimenting with my laser gun temp an am soooooooooo confused :roll: EG I pre heated oven then placed part in oven left it a while then zapped it with gun then immediately removed part from oven by braving the devil like enferno stylee heat (dont try this at home kids eyeballs melt real quick real good :shock: ) and zapped part with lazer and found it was way lower when measured in ambient shop 64.4 f/18c so back in the devil box I go, but now armed with googles and rehang part then zap it with gun and it reads 374 f (interpon recomendation) so what I fiqure from my fool hardy test was even though the part (a chain sprocket) was in the oven and reading 374 it can be sumised that only the surface is at that temp but the overall to the core of the item is lower so does that matter? do you guy’s just start the timmer from the point from when your lazer reads the required temp even though the part may not be full cooked to the bone?

By admin Add comment

Previous Posts


Recent Blog Posts

Categories

Tags

Posts by Month

Blogroll