ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

Relative newbie here looking for some advice.
I have a pretty good 5 gallon rectangular bucket system that is all home built. I built my own heaters, thermostat wells, ano tank cooler and have had fairly good success with clear anodize on small parts. Lots of tanks with several triple rinses.
I am using titanium racking parts from servi-sure which work great. My temperature control is an issue since I went with
water heater thermostats in submerged rectangular tubing wells. Thought it was a cheaper way to go, but only controls within
about 15 degrees.
Anyway, don’t want to get too long winded I am looking to do a product that will require matching colors from one batch to the
next. I started with caswell grey NLN and grey BL with lots of trouble controlling colors. Read some more and went to a black thinking that would be more consistent. The first black parts I did came out the blue/grey I originally wanted. So I think just getting a very consistent process control is my problem. But does anyone have a recommendation for the easiest color to match from one batch to another?
Second question is related and has more to do with ano bath temperature. I did two matching machined 6061 idler pulleys last night racked together. 114.36 sq inches per the pair. Ano bath temp at 60 degrees. Astron 50 amp pwr supply, 15 volts and 9to 9.5 amps for 60 minutes. Current stayed constant and the temp gained maybe 1 degree with the cooler running. Black dye heated to 140 deg for 30 minutes and mid temp nickel seal at about 170 deg. for 30 minutes. Color came out a deep fairly dark navy blue.
I was trying to get as hard a coating as possible. Is the lack of deeper black color due to smaller pore size and a harder coating, which I was trying for, Or lack of pore depth due to the colder ano bath temp. Any expert or experienced opinions appreciated!
I have finally been able to get a good black with 70 plus degree bath temps, so I do know that the colder ano temp is not going to work for good colors.

Hi everyone, I have been reading alot here. So much info, it can get a little confusing for a newbie! But, I’m forging ahead with a oven build, but I have a couple of questions. 1st off, the oven I am building is a 3′Dx4′Wx7′T (OS Deminsion), actual inside deminsion is 32"Dx40"Wx72"T. I will be using 4-2900W Elements which according to the calc. will be approx 48amps. I will be using a tet-612 controller, and a clion 60 amp relay, with a Dayton #1TDU9 fan, the oven will have 2 40 watt lights . The wiring diagram I will use is one I printed of from a post by Ed. I have one question concerning the relay. I have seen many heatsinks for the lower rated relays, i.e. 25a and 40a, but none for a 60a relay. Where have you guys been purchasing yours from and is there a certain model that works better than the others? Also, I would like to include a timer in the wiring diagram of Ed’s, but, I would not know how to hook this up. Any help on the timer and heatsink would be greatly appricated.

This site is great and is very helpful to all. Great job everyone. Keep up the good work!!

Well guys I hate to do it but I am looking at making the jump to a Wagner and I am selling off my current guns to help offset the cost (I also had to sell my little pickup ) . I have sold all the other guns but the Hyper Smooth 02 unit and I am willing to let it go for $800.00 FIRM without the multi coat tip. I decided not to sell the tip as I plan on buying another Hyper Smooth ASAP as a back up gun to the Wagner. The fact that it takes a 3000.00 gun to make me give up my Hyper smooth speaks volumes for its performance! This gun is almost new and comes with everything even the owners manual. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

-Tyler

After cleaning up a steam fitting with 50 years of baked on paint I find that most of the parts are either brass, copper or bronze. However there are a few parts made of steel which I have now polished up with 800 emery paper.
The steel parts are a few brackets about 8" long plus a steel disc around 8" in diameter by half an inch thick (much like a brake disc).

I am just going to have the assembly as an ornament in future but rather than paint the steel parts again I was thinking of nickel plating them. Unless I coat them with oil they will soon rust in any event.

Just opions wanted please as to the best choice of finish – chrome would be out of keeping and zinc needs a rough surface (not after all my polishing).

Thanks very much

For some time, I have been made aware that there are a large number of our customers who are looking for additional income and have a desire to run their own business.

I am working on a plan to provide practical functional business opportunities that will work, and have some back-up. We have a number of systems and products that are ideally suited to this, and in fact, many of them are already being operated by customers.

I envisage a very small capital outlay for these opportunities, so that almost anyone can get into business, for a few dollars.

If you are interested in this opportunity, or are an existing customer who would like to contribute business suggestions through the use of a private forum, please let me know as soon as possible.

Seanc, a regular contributor on our forums and zinc plating expert has constructed a small, cost effective barrel plating machine to plate batches of parts without the need to wire each one up.

See Plating Barrel | zinc plating

As Sean stated:

"I had hoped to get others involved in the technical aspects, perhaps come up w/some improvements or better methods/components. I’m sure with enough "bright minds" thinking about it, it could be improved significantly."

Relative newbie here looking for some advice.
I have a pretty good 5 gallon rectangular bucket system that is all home built. I built my own heaters, thermostat wells, ano tank cooler and have had fairly good success with clear anodize on small parts. Lots of tanks with several triple rinses.
I am using titanium racking parts from servi-sure which work great. My temperature control is an issue since I went with
water heater thermostats in submerged rectangular tubing wells. Thought it was a cheaper way to go, but only controls within
about 15 degrees.
Anyway, don’t want to get too long winded I am looking to do a product that will require matching colors from one batch to the
next. I started with caswell grey NLN and grey BL with lots of trouble controlling colors. Read some more and went to a black thinking that would be more consistent. The first black parts I did came out the blue/grey I originally wanted. So I think just getting a very consistent process control is my problem. But does anyone have a recommendation for the easiest color to match from one batch to another?
Second question is related and has more to do with ano bath temperature. I did two matching machined 6061 idler pulleys last night racked together. 114.36 sq inches per the pair. Ano bath temp at 60 degrees. Astron 50 amp pwr supply, 15 volts and 9to 9.5 amps for 60 minutes. Current stayed constant and the temp gained maybe 1 degree with the cooler running. Black dye heated to 140 deg for 30 minutes and mid temp nickel seal at about 170 deg. for 30 minutes. Color came out a deep fairly dark navy blue.
I was trying to get as hard a coating as possible. Is the lack of deeper black color due to smaller pore size and a harder coating, which I was trying for, Or lack of pore depth due to the colder ano bath temp. Any expert or experienced opinions appreciated!
I have finally been able to get a good black with 70 plus degree bath temps, so I do know that the colder ano temp is not going to work for good colors.

Relative newbie here looking for some advice.
I have a pretty good 5 gallon rectangular bucket system that is all home built. I built my own heaters, thermostat wells, ano tank cooler and have had fairly good success with clear anodize on small parts. Lots of tanks with several triple rinses.
I am using titanium racking parts from servi-sure which work great. My temperature control is an issue since I went with
water heater thermostats in submerged rectangular tubing wells. Thought it was a cheaper way to go, but only controls within
about 15 degrees.
Anyway, don’t want to get too long winded I am looking to do a product that will require matching colors from one batch to the
next. I started with caswell grey NLN and grey BL with lots of trouble controlling colors. Read some more and went to a black thinking that would be more consistent. The first black parts I did came out the blue/grey I originally wanted. So I think just getting a very consistent process control is my problem. But does anyone have a recommendation for the easiest color to match from one batch to another?
Second question is related and has more to do with ano bath temperature. I did two matching machined 6061 idler pulleys last night racked together. 114.36 sq inches per the pair. Ano bath temp at 60 degrees. Astron 50 amp pwr supply, 15 volts and 9to 9.5 amps for 60 minutes. Current stayed constant and the temp gained maybe 1 degree with the cooler running. Black dye heated to 140 deg for 30 minutes and mid temp nickel seal at about 170 deg. for 30 minutes. Color came out a deep fairly dark navy blue.
I was trying to get as hard a coating as possible. Is the lack of deeper black color due to smaller pore size and a harder coating, which I was trying for, Or lack of pore depth due to the colder ano bath temp. Any expert or experienced opinions appreciated!
I have finally been able to get a good black with 70 plus degree bath temps, so I do know that the colder ano temp is not going to work for good colors.

Relative newbie here looking for some advice.
I have a pretty good 5 gallon rectangular bucket system that is all home built. I built my own heaters, thermostat wells, ano tank cooler and have had fairly good success with clear anodize on small parts. Lots of tanks with several triple rinses.
I am using titanium racking parts from servi-sure which work great. My temperature control is an issue since I went with
water heater thermostats in submerged rectangular tubing wells. Thought it was a cheaper way to go, but only controls within
about 15 degrees.
Anyway, don’t want to get too long winded I am looking to do a product that will require matching colors from one batch to the
next. I started with caswell grey NLN and grey BL with lots of trouble controlling colors. Read some more and went to a black thinking that would be more consistent. The first black parts I did came out the blue/grey I originally wanted. So I think just getting a very consistent process control is my problem. But does anyone have a recommendation for the easiest color to match from one batch to another?
Second question is related and has more to do with ano bath temperature. I did two matching machined 6061 idler pulleys last night racked together. 114.36 sq inches per the pair. Ano bath temp at 60 degrees. Astron 50 amp pwr supply, 15 volts and 9to 9.5 amps for 60 minutes. Current stayed constant and the temp gained maybe 1 degree with the cooler running. Black dye heated to 140 deg for 30 minutes and mid temp nickel seal at about 170 deg. for 30 minutes. Color came out a deep fairly dark navy blue.
I was trying to get as hard a coating as possible. Is the lack of deeper black color due to smaller pore size and a harder coating, which I was trying for, Or lack of pore depth due to the colder ano bath temp. Any expert or experienced opinions appreciated!
I have finally been able to get a good black with 70 plus degree bath temps, so I do know that the colder ano temp is not going to work for good colors.

Relative newbie here looking for some advice.
I have a pretty good 5 gallon rectangular bucket system that is all home built. I built my own heaters, thermostat wells, ano tank cooler and have had fairly good success with clear anodize on small parts. Lots of tanks with several triple rinses.
I am using titanium racking parts from servi-sure which work great. My temperature control is an issue since I went with
water heater thermostats in submerged rectangular tubing wells. Thought it was a cheaper way to go, but only controls within
about 15 degrees.
Anyway, don’t want to get too long winded I am looking to do a product that will require matching colors from one batch to the
next. I started with caswell grey NLN and grey BL with lots of trouble controlling colors. Read some more and went to a black thinking that would be more consistent. The first black parts I did came out the blue/grey I originally wanted. So I think just getting a very consistent process control is my problem. But does anyone have a recommendation for the easiest color to match from one batch to another?
Second question is related and has more to do with ano bath temperature. I did two matching machined 6061 idler pulleys last night racked together. 114.36 sq inches per the pair. Ano bath temp at 60 degrees. Astron 50 amp pwr supply, 15 volts and 9to 9.5 amps for 60 minutes. Current stayed constant and the temp gained maybe 1 degree with the cooler running. Black dye heated to 140 deg for 30 minutes and mid temp nickel seal at about 170 deg. for 30 minutes. Color came out a deep fairly dark navy blue.
I was trying to get as hard a coating as possible. Is the lack of deeper black color due to smaller pore size and a harder coating, which I was trying for, Or lack of pore depth due to the colder ano bath temp. Any expert or experienced opinions appreciated!
I have finally been able to get a good black with 70 plus degree bath temps, so I do know that the colder ano temp is not going to work for good colors.

Hi everyone,

I am in need of some one in South Central Texas to help repair a small conveyor type pizza oven.

The place I work at has a small pizza oven that recently shorted out and blew some components. Those parts have been replaced, power is getting to the distribution blocks, but the oven won’t work. A couple of the guys I work with are pretty good with electronics but aren’t electricians (they are mechanics) and are not sure why it still won’t work. They said everything looks like it is working correctly.

I’m not sure how much they can afford to pay, the snack bar is a smaller part of the overall business, but I know they are willing to pay something to get it working again. If there is anyone in the area willing to help out, send me a PM.

Thanks,

Matt

Hi everyone,

I am in need of some one in South Central Texas to help repair a small conveyor type pizza oven.

The place I work at has a small pizza oven that recently shorted out and blew some components. Those parts have been replaced, power is getting to the distribution blocks, but the oven won’t work. A couple of the guys I work with are pretty good with electronics but aren’t electricians (they are mechanics) and are not sure why it still won’t work. They said everything looks like it is working correctly.

I’m not sure how much they can afford to pay, the snack bar is a smaller part of the overall business, but I know they are willing to pay something to get it working again. If there is anyone in the area willing to help out, send me a PM.

Thanks,

Matt

Hi everyone,

I am in need of some one in South Central Texas to help repair a small conveyor type pizza oven.

The place I work at has a small pizza oven that recently shorted out and blew some components. Those parts have been replaced, power is getting to the distribution blocks, but the oven won’t work. A couple of the guys I work with are pretty good with electronics but aren’t electricians (they are mechanics) and are not sure why it still won’t work. They said everything looks like it is working correctly.

I’m not sure how much they can afford to pay, the snack bar is a smaller part of the overall business, but I know they are willing to pay something to get it working again. If there is anyone in the area willing to help out, send me a PM.

Thanks,

Matt

So my quest to home anodize continues with the purchase of ANOTHER Little Giant pump. Hopefully this one will actually be what the seller describes it as and not a dud

Anyway, while making the piping for the new pump I got to thinking about temprature reading. How do you guys do it? I assume I simply cannot dangle the probe of a thermometer such as this one into the tank?

CDN 2-in-1 Probe Thermometer 2P212

Try as I might I cannot find a TI probe

I’m using a Rubbermaid container right now.

So my quest to home anodize continues with the purchase of ANOTHER Little Giant pump. Hopefully this one will actually be what the seller describes it as and not a dud

Anyway, while making the piping for the new pump I got to thinking about temprature reading. How do you guys do it? I assume I simply cannot dangle the probe of a thermometer such as this one into the tank?

CDN 2-in-1 Probe Thermometer 2P212

Try as I might I cannot find a TI probe

I’m using a Rubbermaid container right now.