ANODIZING EQUIPMENTS

Has anybody ever PC’d a carbon fiber bicycle. Just need to know if this can B done and if there
is ant special prep or outgassing issues. If this can be done it will bring in quite a bit of work for me, since
I will help sponsor a BMX racing team not to metion some free advertisement. Thanks a bunch:mrgreen:

Hey all, hobbyist here, I’ve been on these forums for some time and reading up on stuff. I got a PC gun a couple months ago wired up my garage for 220 and got a clean used oven to shoot parts in. I’ve been looking around these forums getting lots of tips which have helped me out greatly in shooting my first couple of parts.

A few questions though, how do you guys handle hot parts that you’ve masked off and it’s flowed out a bit? Do you completely let it cool down and then unmask then bake it till it’s cured? How would you pull the tape/foil off without disturbing the flowed powder (obviously depending on size/shape of part)? Any tips tricks are appreciated!

Secondly I need to build a good PC spray booth, I’m just going to make it out of 2×4’s and some type of smooth plastic or plexiglass, I’ll put in a filter with a box fan on the backside to create airflow past the workpiece. I know it’s beneficial to ground a piece of metal behind the part I am shooting in the booth to collect charged powder but what is everyone using as a ground? I’m doing this in my garage with a concrete slab.

Lastly, my oven is a electric house oven that is quite old but is in fantastic shape. Has anyone made something for hanging parts to the top of the oven (inside) or do you just put a rack on the top rung and hang parts from there?

Thanks for any input!

My problem is that I get small raised specks on *everything* I coat. They are each about the size of a grain of sand. There is about one every square inch on average.

I have the Eastwood hobby gun.

Any help would be great. Here are the thinks I have thought of and tried:

-I am blasting parts with glass bead and thought maybe it could be the beads that didn’t all come off. I tried going over parts with a green scouring pad to get any glass beads off which didn’t work. I have since coated a piece of aluminum foil (not blasted), and still had the problem.

-I though it might be outgassing, but heating it to 50deg over the curing temp for 45min didn’t help, and I still have the problem with non-cast parts. I have coated 6061 aluminum, stainless steel, cast iron, aluminum foil, steel, and various other things. They all have the same problem.

-I thought it might be moisture from the air supply. I still have the same problem with a water/oil separator and desiccant dryer at the air supply and a disposable moisture separator (at the gun).

-I thought it might be sawdust from the shop. I tried setting up a tent (very clean inside) and shot inside of it. I also misted water on the floors and walls to keep dust from getting into the air.

I am completely stumped. Any help would be absolutely great. Unfortunately I need to coat a set of rims in the next week (I might be able to wait just a little longer), and if I can’t figure it out I’ll just have to live with the specks. This is driving me crazy…

I am looking for pictures of the inside of ovens for pictures of blowers and ducting. Also, how did those with fans wire them? Any pictures are welcome of ovens as I am looking for some ideas on hooks and wheeled rack systems etc as well. Perhaps a permanent picture thread would be nice? Thanks

Hello I just invested in a Sand blasting cabinet and I’m not sure what the best media is to use. I was thinking about using a Aluminum Oxide and Glass bead Mix but I see they sell a medium and a Fine sizes. What would be good for the powdercoating?

Also how often do I need to change the media (Hours of use) And how often should I clean/filter the media? And where can I buy the filters?

Thanks

Getting set up for my first run. Been lurking a lot and reading practically the entire forum! Thanks for all the help so far from everyone

One question – I have the chance to pick up a 3/32 lead sheet 34 x 48" for $90. Would this be too thin for a cathode?

Im prepping a quad frame for my wife. She has given me some color limitations……Light blues, Light greens, and Light purples/lavenders. Im having a heck of a time finding suitable colors to do her frame in.
Im not a fan of RALs as they dont seem to have the pop or bling factor of the candies and so on.

Any help? Pics or examples or the colors would be cool.

So far I have samples from NIC….didnt find many she liked.
Cant find online samples of Spraylat, so if you have em thatd be awesome.

Im open to all suggestions.

Love to find out more about your set-up and while im waiting for my now rectifier to come in, would you be interested in plating 2 small pieces for me?? rbudney@comcast.net

Ok Scott, I have used the static guard down all my nozzles, yet things keep getting worse….. I will do as you said and wait till a full moon on a Thursday! That must be what is wrong……

But when you say I should ceramic coat my heating elements on my new oven build with 3 or 4 layers of ceramic, should this be on a full moon also

thanks so much for all your help! the new guy!!

I want to Gold plate a figurine that I believe is pot metal. I know practically nothing about plating so I have a couple of questions before I decide whether or not to proceed. The figurine is brand new, so no corrosion but it does have paint on it. How can I remove the paint without losing sharp corners and detail. Is pot metal hard enough to withstand light sandblasting and if it is, is light sandblasting enough to prepare the surface for plating? Other than sandblasting is there anyway to remove the paint (without spending a fortune) that will leave a good surface for plating And my second question is about copper plating. The Pick-A-Kit helper says to first use "Flash Copper" but I’m just wondering why the "Plug N’ Plate" kit can’t be used.
Thank you

I got some planet eclipse parts that look like chrome but aren’t. I was told by planet eclipse that they don’t chrome only polish anodize.

Well, I caswell chrome stripped the part. Nothing happened.

I put in anodize stripper. Still no bubbles or anything. (this tells me it isn’t pure aluminum)

Anybody ever come across anything with planet eclipse "chrome" like pieces??

Hello all. Fairly new here. Been powder coating about a year. Up until recently I’ve been doing this for myself as a hobby. Posted a few pics in a forum I’m active on and now I have business! Thtas teh good part, now the bad.

Everything I’ve done so far has been painted, nothing chromed. I’ve recently tried doing previously chromed parts and I keep getting blemishes. Although the parts are cast, it doesn’t look like outgassing to me. Looks like lint or contaminent under the powder. I blasted all the chrome off. Copper and nickel still remained. prebaked, acetone, propane torch, reflective chrome powder, and they look like ****. Will get a pic up when I can. Any ideas?

I have been around here reading and gathering my parts and tools for almost 2 yrs. Last yr I bought the 50kv unit from caswell and got to looking for an oven or parts to build one from. After several months of delays and other more important matters, I found a deal on a gas fired walk-in 10FTx 8FT oven that I got for a great deal. It was up and running but was being replaced with a new Electric unit and for $50 and 3 days of work I got it apart and relocated to my shop. Almost the same day I got it home I found someone that needed a varsol booth that I was not and didn’t plan to use and was willing to trade for a smaller Oven. This one was 36inx 36in x36in inside, and it was also a working 220v ready to use unit. The only thing missing was the floor and the shelf. I found some Stainless to use for the floor that already had holes in it so the air can pass thru to get to the heater elements.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j…im/ovenpic.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j…m/ovenpic2.jpg

I spent this weekend getting it setup on a stand so I can roll it around my shop. So, now I guess I will have to get my blasting unit working a little better and then I will be all set to start blowing some powder. Ha Ha.

Great forum Guys. Keep it up. Thanks for all the good tips.

Dieseltim

Hello,, I’ve looked around here to find out what is the correct PH level on the ano tank but I was not successful. If I missed it I apologize, but could some one tell me what it is? I don’t know if its that crucial but I’m having trouble with PAR using the traditional 4.5/144 formula. I’ve measured and measured my parts and played with different amp settings and either I reach PAR in a short time (like 40 minutes) or I don’t reach it at all, (well I shot down the power supply after 3 hrs). The parts seem to come out ok in both instances but with different tones in color. Do I even need to reach PAR? Thanks !

I have everything is good…

Now here is where the dumb in me comes out. I have the TET612 manual and really, it could be in greek. I just can’t figure out what to do to start.

I plugged in the oven and it clicks on the contactor and the elements heat up. The lower display says 200…the upper says 15 then starts counting down.

Can anyone just lay out what I am supposed to do now? I can’t figure out any of it. Today I let it run till the upper display read -004 then figured that I should probably defer to someone that know how to deal with this.

I would really appreciate someone just giving me a step by step of what to do to get to actually using this oven.

Please help me.